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Water (Filters/Additives/Test
Kits)
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Source Water - City Mains
Water Is Not Good Enough
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Background
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DI Filters
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RO Filters
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Further Comments About Water
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Additives
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Testable Parameters
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Alkalinity
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Calcium
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pH
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Nitrate (NO3)
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Phosphate (PO4)
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Specific Gravity
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Water Changes
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Filtration and Equipment
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Live Rock
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Protein Skimmers
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Counter Current Air Driven
Protein Skimmers
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Venturi Protein Skimmers
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Protein Skimmer Considerations
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Granular Activated Carbon (GAC)
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Other Chemical Filter Media
(X-Whatever)
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Mechanical Filtration
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Under Gravel Filters (UGF)
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Reverse Flow UGFs (RUGF)
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Trickle Filters
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Algae Scrubbers (somewhat long)
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Live Sand
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Lights
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General Discussion
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Detail Discussion
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Lighting Data
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Cost Estimates
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Stock
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Common to Scientific Name Cross
Reference
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Coral Aggression Chart
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Corals [Cnidaria (Anthozoa)]
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Shelled Things
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Algae
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Possible Problems
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Hermit Crabs
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General Catalogs
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Questions and Answers
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Book Review
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Useful Tables
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Credits
1.1 Water
1.1.1 Source Water - City Mains Water Is Not
Good Enough
Background
US EPA requirements for water
quality from municipal sources are insufficiently pure for reef tank usage.
For instance, the EPA standard for Nitrate (as NO3-N) is 10.0 mg/l, over
twice the recommended maximum level. Extremely toxic (to inverts) heavy
metals such as copper are allowed at levels as high as 1 mg/l.
Most public water supplies have contaminates
well below the EPA levels and some reef tanks have done fine on some public
supplies. In general, however, it is recommended that some form of post
processing be performed on public water before it is introduced into the
reef tank.
Although some people have access to distilled,
de-ionized or reverse osmosis water from public sources, most will use
a home sized system to produce their tank water. The two most common systems
used are de-ionization resins, and reverse osmosis membranes.
1.1.2 DI filters
De-ionization (DI) units come
in two basic varieties: mixed bed and separate bed. Two chambers are used
in separate bed units, one for anion resins (to filter negatively charged
ions), the other for cation resins (to filter positively charged ions).
Mixed bed units use a single chamber with a mix of anion and cation resins.
DI units are 100% water efficient with
no waste water. They are typically rated in terms of grains of capacity
(a grain is 0.065 grams). Once the capacity of the unit is reached it either
needs to be replaced or recharged (using strong acids and bases). Recharging
is normally only an option for separate bed units.
A quick check of the local water quality
charts (normally available free from the water supply company) will reveal
the water purification capacity of a given DI unit. For example, if a unit
rated at 1000 grains is purchased and the local water supply has a hardness
of 123 mg/l (Missouri River, USA), then the unit capacity is (1000*0.065)/0.123
= 528 liters = 139.5 gallons of purified water.
Water production rates for DI units varies,
but is typically around 10-15 gallons/hour.
1.1.3 RO Filters
Reverse osmosis (RO) units are
normally based upon one of two membrane technologies: cellulose triacetate
(CTA) and thin film composite (TFC). CTA based systems are typically cheaper
and do not filter as well (90-95% rejection rates). TFC based systems cost
more but have higher pollution rejection rates (95%-98%). CTA membranes
break down over time due to bacterial attack whereas TFC membranes are
more or less impervious to this. CTA units are not recommended for reef
tank purposes. RO filters work by forcing water under pressure against
the membrane. The membranes allow the small water molecules to pass through
while rejecting most of the larger contaminates. RO units waste a lot of
water. The membrane usually has 4-6 times as much water passing by it as
it allows though. Unfortunately, the more water wasted, the better the
membrane usually is at rejecting pollutants. Also, higher waste water flows
are usually associated with longer membrane life. What this means in practice
is that 300 gallons of total water may be required to produce 50 gallons
of purified water.
Like any filter, RO membranes will eventually
clog and need to be replaced. Replacement membranes cost around $50-$100.
Prefilters are often placed in front of the membrane to help lengthen the
lifetime. These filters commonly consist of a micron sediment filter and
a carbon block filter. The micron filter removes large particles and the
carbon filter removes chlorine, large organic molecules and some heavy
metals. Of course, the use of prefilters makes initial unit cost more expensive
but they should pay for themselves in longer membrane life.
RO units are rated in terms of gallons
per day of output with 10-50 gallon/day units typically available. Note
that the waste water produced by a RO unit is fine for hard water loving
freshwater fish such as Rift Lake cichlids. Some route the reject water
to the family garden. The Spectapure brand of RO units has a good reputation.
1.1.4 Further Comments
About Water
The ultimate in home water purification
comes from combining the two technologies and processing the water from
an RO unit though a DI unit. If a very high grade DI unit is used, water
equivalent to triple distillation purification levels can be achieved.
Since the water entering the DI unit can be 50 times purer than tapwater,
the DI unit can process 50 times as much before the resins are exhausted.
This significantly reduces the replacement or recharging cost of the DI
unit.
If only one filter can be afforded, and
waste water is not a concern, then it is recommended that a TFC RO unit
with pre-filters be purchased. If waste water is a concern, or if only
a small quantity of make-up water will be required (say, for a single 20
gallon tank), then a DI unit would be the preferred choice.
City water is unstable. Many cities modify
their treatment process several times a year, dramatically changing its
suitability for reef usage. For instance, Portland has great reef water
- most, but not all, of the year.
1.2 Additives
Calcium (Ca) - required addition.
A range of 400-450 ppm Ca++ (10-11 mM) is recommended. The preferred method
is the usage of Kalkwasser (Limewater) for all evaporation make-up water.
The use of Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) is known to cause problems with alkalinity
(provable by balancing the relevant chemical reactions occurring in the
tank when CaCl2 is added). Still, CaCl2 is occasionally useful to repair
serious Ca++ deficits.
Chelated calcium:
The efficacy of chelated calcium
products available for reef aquaria is questionable. To the best of our
knowledge, there exists no scientific evidence indicating that chelated
calcium is especially available to corals and other CaCO3 depositing invertebrates.
Nothing is known about the uptake of chelated calcium products by coral.
And most importantly, there exists no evidence showing that chelated calcium
products support stony coral growth rates in excess of, or even comparable
to growth rates documented in aquaria where calcium is supplied as aqueous
Ca(OH)2 [kalkwasser.]
Chelated calcium products also interfere
with the ability to measure actual calcium levels in the aquarium. In particular,
chelated calcium cannot be measured by any kit which uses EDTA titration,
including the highly recommended HACH kit. Some people find the SeaChem
kit, which does measure chelated calcium, to be impossible to read with
any accuracy.
Until such a time as vendors supplying
chelated calcium products make available well conceived, carefully documented
uptake and growth studies with their products, or the same experiments
are performed and published by third parties, we regard the use of chelated
calcium products in the reef aquarium to be experimental at best, especially
when kalkwasser and other non-chelated calcium sources are KNOWN to us
to support the growth and even reproduction of stony corals in the home
aquarium.
Iodine (I) - enhances soft coral growth.
It is removed by skimming.
Strontium (Sr) - used rapidly by most hard
corals (weekly additions usually performed).
Buffers - increase alkalinity and control
pH. Desired range is 2.5-3.5 meq/L (7-10 dKH) alkalinity. Alkalinity can
be raised by the addition of one of many commercial buffer compounds. The
addition of kalkwasser (saturated Ca(OH)2 solution - also known as "limewater"),
which is often done to maintain calcium levels, will also raise the alkalinity
level. SeaChem's Marine Buffer, Reef Builder and Kent's Superbuffer dKH
are popular. The Coralife and Thiel buffer products have had less favorable
reviews.
Iron (Fe) - Used by algaes. Add this if
you want good macroalgae growth. Be sure that macroalgae growth is favored
or else plaguelevels of hair algae may result.
Copper (Cu) - Used as a medication in fish-only
tanks. Copper is highly toxic to invertebrates, even in very small concentrations.
DO NOT USE THIS, IN ANY FORM, EVER, IN
A REEF TANK OR ANY TANK WHICH CONTAINS INVERTEBRATES. PERIOD!
Other additives, especially the commercial
"secret formula" mixtures, are more controversial. Some people report good
results from some of them other people report disaster or no effect. Experiment
cautiously with them if desired.
1.3 Testable Parameters
Note: parts per million (ppm) and milligrams
per liter (mg/l) are virtually identical in seawater and the units are
used synonymously in this document.
1.3.1 Alkalinity
Alkalinity is a measure of the
acid buffering capacity of a solution. That is, it is a measure of the
ability of a solution to resist a decrease in pH when acids are added.
Since acids are normally produced by the biological action of the reef
tank contents, alkalinity in a closed system has a natural tendency to
go down. Additives are used to keep it at a proper level.
rect alkalinity levels allow hard corals
and coralline algae to properly secrete new skeletal material. When alkalinity
levels drop, the carbonate ions needed are not available and the process
slows or stops.
alinity is measured in one of three units:
milliequivalents per liter (meq/l), German degrees of hardness (dKH) or
parts per million of calcium carbonate (ppm CaCO3). Any of the units may
be employed but dKH is most commonly used in the aquarium hobby and meq/l
is used exclusively in modern scientific literature. The conversion for
the three units is:
1 meq/l = 2.8 dKH = 50 ppm CaCO3
[As an aside, there is an imperial unit
of alkalinity and hardness which is 'grains per gallon'. The water softening
industry uses this unit. 1 gpg = 17 ppm CaCO3.]
A word of caution about the ppm CaCO3 unit
is in order. The 'ppm CaCO3' unit reports the concentration of CaCO3 in
pure water that would provide the same buffering capacity as the water
sample in question. This does not mean the sample contains that much CaCO3.
In fact, it tells you nothing about how much of the buffering is due to
carbonates, it is only a measure of equivalency.
Alkalinity is often confused with carbonate
hardness since both participate in acid neutralization and test kits may
express both in either of the three units. However, carbonate hardness
is technically a measure of only the carbonate species in equilibria whereas
alkalinity measures the total acid binding ions present which may include
sulfates, hydroxides, borates and others in addition to carbonates. In
natural seawater, though, carbonates make up 96% of the alkalinity so equating
alkalinity with carbonate hardness isn't too far off.
Recommended values for alkalinity vary
depending on who's work you read. Natural surface seawater has an alkalinity
of about 2.4 meq/l. Following are levels recommended by various authors.
From John Tullock (1991) "The Reef Tank
Owner's Manual":
page 46 - Alkalinity range should
be 3.5 to 5.0 meq/l.
page 94 - Alkalinity reading of 2.5-5.0
meq/l is proper.
page 188- Alkalinity should be about 3.5
meq/l. (In reference to maintaining Tridacna clams.)
Albert Thiel (1989), in "Small Reef Aquarium
Basics" recommends 5.35-6.45 meq/l. This is an Artificially high level
which may initiate a "snowstorm" of CaCO3 precipitate. Most reef aquarists
do not believe in such extreme and unnatural levels and recommend 3.0-3.5
meq/l as a good range instead.
The chemistry of how alkalinity, pH, CO2,
carbonate, bicarbonate, and other ions interrelate is fairly complex and
is beyond the scope and detail of this document.
Some recommended test kits for alkalinity
are the SeaTest kit and the LaMotte kit. The SeaTest kit is very inexpensive
and is one of the few SeaTest kits suitable for reef use. The SeaTest kitmeasures
in division of 0.5 meq/l or, if the amount of solution is doubled, 0.25
meq/l. The SeaTest kit uses titration in which the acid and indicator are
included in the same reagent. The LaMotte kit is a little more expensive,
though still fairly cheap, and is somewhat more accurate. The unit of titration
is 4 ppm CaCO3 although in practice, one drop from the titration tube may
be up to twice this amount making the resolution about 0.15 meq/l. The
Lamotte kit has a separate indicator tablet and acid reagent which is a
nice feature.
1.3.2 Calcium
Calcium content is referred to
as 'calcium hardness' and is measured either in parts per million of calcium
ion (ppm Ca++) or parts per million equivalent calcium carbonate (ppm CaCO3).
Calcium hardness is often confused with alkalinity and carbonate hardness
since the 'ppm CaCO3' unit may be used for all three. As with alkalinity,
a calcium level expressed as X ppm CaCO3 does not imply that X ppm of calcium
carbonate is present in the tank; it merely states that the sample contains
an equivalent amount of calcium as if X ppm of CaCO3 were added to pure
water. The reading also does not tell you how much carbonate is present.
Calcium hardness test kits are different
from alkalinity kits. Some people have reported difficulties with the LaMotte
calcium hardness kit. The Hach 'Total Hardness and Calcium' kit has not
had these reports. Both express results in ppm CaCO3. The relationship
between CaCO3 and Ca++ is:
1 ppm CaCO3 = 0.4 ppm Ca++
The results from a test kit reading in ppm
CaCO3 may be converted to the molar concentration scale by dividing by
100.
100 ppm CaCO3 = 1 mM Ca++
40 ppm Ca++ = 1 mM Ca++
Calcium levels of natural surface seawater
are around 420 ppm Ca++ (10.5 mM). In a well running reef tank you will
notice, sometimes dramatic, calcium depletion. Calcium addition in some
form is essential. A calcium level above 400 ppm is required and a range
of 400-450 ppm Ca++ is recommended. Most reefkeeping books (see bibliography)
explain the options for calcium addition.
1.3.3 pH
The suggested reef tank range
is 8.0 to 8.3. The pH should hold its own unless alkalinity is low. If
alkalinity is OK but pH is low there is probably a buildup of organic acids
or a serious lack of gas exchange (low water surface area to volume ratio).
1.3.4 Nitrate (NO3)
Two units are used to measure
nitrates: nitrate (NO3-) and nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N or just N). The ratio
is:
1 ppm NO3-N = 4.4 ppm NO3-.
Nitrates themselves may not be a problem but
serve as an easily measured indicator of general water quality. Many hard
to test for compounds like dissolved organics tend to have levels that
correlate well with nitrate levels in typical tanks.
Different authors cite varying upper nitrate
values permissible. No higher than 5 ppm NO3- is a good number with less
than 0.25 ppm recommended. Unpolluted seawater has nitrate values below
detectable levels of hobbyist test kits, so "immeasureable" is the goal
to strive for.
Most test kits measure nitrate-nitrogen.
Do not forget to multiply by 4.4 to get the ionic nitrate reading. LaMotte
makes a nitrate test kit that will measure down to 0.25 ppm NO3-N. Hach
makes one good to 0.02 ppm NO3-N, about 10x more sensitive, but you must
be sure to order the saltwater reagents. They will only sell you the saltwater
reagents in addition to the regular kit with the freshwater reagents, not
in place of them, which is annoying. This makes the Hach kit about twice
as expensive in the end as the LaMotte kit but the 10x increase in performance
makes this more acceptable.
1.3.5 Phosphate (PO4)
Phosphates, along with nitrates,
are a primary nutrient of algae. Tanks with "high" levels of phosphates
tend to be infested with hair algae. All authors cite zero ppm PO4 as a
good goal. An upper level 0.1 ppm is recommended by Tullock (1991) with
less than 0.05 ppm given by Thiel (1991).
1.3.6
Specific Gravity
Short form:
Specific Gravity is temperature
dependent. See the next table for a quick lookup of the recommended hydrometer
readings. They are based upon our recommended S.G. of 1.025 at 60 degrees
F.
Degrees F Hydrometer reading.
50 1.0255
55 1.0252
60 1.0250
65 1.0246
70 1.0240
75 1.0233
80 1.0226
85 1.0218 (rather hot for most tanks)
90 1.0210 (very hot for most tanks)
In more detail:
1.025 recommended for reef tanks.
Note that virtually all hydrometers are calibrated for measurements at
a temperature of 60 F. Included below is a short table of temperature adjustments.
Add the value shown to your hydrometer reading to get an accurate reading.
Degrees F Correction
50 0.0005
55 0.0002
60 0.0000
65 0.0004
70 0.0010
75 0.0017
80 0.0024
85 0.0032
90 0.0040
For example: If the hydrometer reads 1.0235
at 80F, the actual Specific Gravity is 1.0235 + 0.0024 = 1.0259
Note: If your tank is between 75F and
80F, this means you should try and keep your Specific Gravity around 1.0230
to 1.0235.
For all practical purposes, the scale is
linear between data points, so you can simply extrapolate between table
entries. For instance, 78F is 3/5 the distance between 75F and 80F; the
difference in corrections is 0.0024-0.0017 = 0.0007. 3/5th of 0.0007 is
0.0004. Add the offset 0.0004 to the base value for 75F of 0.0017 and you
get a correction value for 78F of 0.0021.
It is fairly common in literature to see
references to salinity in terms of Parts Per Thousand (PPT). For salinities
in the range we are interested in, the conversion formulas are:
Salinity = 1.1 + 1300 * (Temperature corrected
Specific Gravity - 0.999) Temperature corrected Specific Gravity = ((Salinity
- 1.1) / 1300) + 0.999;
Here is a short table of some
common values:
Salinity Specific Gravity
20 PPT 1.0135
25 PPT 1.0174
30 PPT 1.0212
35 PPT 1.0251 * Typical Ocean Value *
40 PPT 1.0289
1.4 Water Changes
"The solution to pollution is
dilution". Water changes are used to correct problems. Minimal changes
of 5%/year when all is set up and running smoothly may suffice. Some feel
that an occasional water change of about 20% every 1-3 month is a reasonable
safety net that may help prevent contaminate buildup and trace element
depletion problems. Others recommend 5%-10% per week.
2.0 Filtration and Equipment
2.1 Live Rock
Live rock is simply old coral
skeletons that have become the home to multiple small creatures. Typically
reef tanks have 1-2 lbs of live rock per gallon of capacity. Pieces vary
in size and shape from baseball size to dinner plate size in typical tanks.
In large tanks (> 500 gallons) very large pieces of live rock tend to be
used. These pieces may individually weight up to 85lbs (about the limit
of what one person can handle).
The use of live rock greatly increases
the bio-diversity in a tank. However, its primary purpose is to provide
a home for bacteria that provide the biological filtration for the aquarium./P>
Cheap rock has low amounts of coralline
algae and tends to grow hair algae well. It may be suitable for a soft
coral only tank. Hair algae free coralline encrusted live rock (high quality
Florida and/or pacific (Marshall and Tonga Island) rock is highly desirable.
"Berlin" style tanks use high quality live rock (and protein skimming)
as the primary filtration method with great success.
2.2 Protein Skimmers
Required equipment. Don't undersize.
Common wisdom is that you can't overskim a tank. Many of the more available
commercial units are useful for tanks only in the 10-20 gallon range. Anything
shorter than about a foot tall is essentially useless.
Unfortunetly, there is no formula to determine
the required size of a skimmer. Amount of organic waste generating organisms
(fish, coral, live rock, etc.) will obviously be the primary variable.
All skimmers should be filled with TINY bubbles and have a milky white
appearance. Any skimmer that doesn't match that requirement is not working
optimally.
Two basic styles of skimmers exist: counter
current air driven and venturi driven. Both styles work fine, both have
tradeoffs. Both require tuning. Expect to spend some time over the first
month or so learning how to keep your skimmer tuned. Below is some discussion
about the two styles.
2.2.1 Counter Current
Air Driven Protein Skimmer
These skimmers usually require
three pieces of equipment typically not sold with them: an air pump, air
stones and a water pump. Total skimmer cost depends upon the kinds of equipment
needed to run the skimmer properly.
The water pump injects the water to be
skimmed into the unit. Some people use gravity to feed surface overflow
water to the skimmer or divert part of the main circulation pump's return
flow into the skimmer to eliminate the need for a dedicated pump. Otherwise
a powerhead in the sump usually suffices for the water pump.
The air pump must be large enough and a
sufficient number of air stones must be driven to make the skimming column
milky white. In some skimmers one medium sized air pump like a Tetra Luft
G and one air stone will be sufficient. Other skimmers need more to perform
optimally. Air driven skimmers should use limewood air stones which will
need to be replaced from time to time. Cheap limewood air stones have a
reputation of needing to be replaced much more often than high quality
stones. Coralife limewood air stones have a good reputation. Air stone
replacement rate depends on your tank and skimmer; some people need to
change them every 2 weeks others only after 3-4 months.
A.J. Nilsen recommends a 1x tank volume
per hour turnover of both water and air by counter current air driven skimmers.
Others feel each skimmer has an optimal rate of air and water processing
and that if more skimming is desired then more or bigger skimmers should
be added rather than trying to operate the current one beyond its optimal
performance range.
Some hold that any skimmer under 4' high
and 4" in diameter is too small for anything over about a 20 gallon reef.
2.2.2 Venturi Protein
Skimmers
These skimmers use the Bernoulli
effect of the venturi valve to inject air bubbles into the water. This
obviates the need of an air pump and air stones. The penalty is that a
relatively large, high pressure (read expensive and powerhungry) dedicated
water pump is mandatory for the venturi unit to inject sufficient amounts
of air.
A particular commercial venturi skimmer
may or may not come with a water pump. If it does supply a pump, it may
or may not be sufficiently large to run the skimmer properly. At least
some of the venturi skimmers easily available are not very well designed.
Venturi valves require occasional cleaning
of the air opening. This is as simple as reaming the opening out with pipe
cleaner every few days. An acid bath may be required if the unit clogs
or gets coated with mineral deposits.
Most venturi style skimmers are more compact
that CC skimmers. Manufactures state that they are more efficient, since
they (supposedly) inject more air. Many suspect that design constraints
(back pressure severely affects venturi performance) have more to do with
the manufactured height (who would want a top injected 4' skimmer with
air only in the top foot of water?). Properly designed venturi skimmers
are tall to maximize air contact time, and require pumps that can handle
backpressure.
2.2.3 Protein Skimmer
Considerations
Below are some pros and cons of
venturi vs. CC skimmers. Some people will debate some of the statements.
Venturi skimmers, due to the large water
pump needed, have a higher initial purchase price than CC units for the
same amount of skimming.
The operational cost of a venturi unit
is basically just the electricity bill. A CC unit must sum in electricity
consumption for the water pump and air pump (usually small) plus air stone
and diaphragm replacement. Which one is more cost effective for you depends
upon which equipment you had to buy to run the skimmer properly, your electricity
rate and how often air stones need to be replaced. Most people find CC
skimmers less expensive to both purchase and operate for the same amount
of skimming. Venturi skimmers are less cumbersome in appearance and in
operation. They are usually smaller and quieter. They are on the whole
more hassle free. The powerful pump required for venturi skimmers may,
however, add considerable heat to the water.
One general note on water pumps: The amount
of heat added to the water varies by brand, design, usage, and placement.
Basically, the more efficient the pump (gallons delivered at a given pressure
for a given power usage), the cooler it will run. Restricting the output
of the pump will generally increase the water temperature. (Never restrict
the intake of a centrifugal pump!) Obviously, an air cooled pump will increase
your tank temperature less than a submersible (and therefore tank water
cooled) pump will.
2.3 Granular Activated Carbon
Some debate about its usage. Most
use it at least a few days a month, some continuously. Many brands have
problems with phosphate leaching.
2.4 Other Chemical Filter Media
X-Nitrate, X-Phosphate, Polyfilters,
Chemi-pure, etc. - probably not needed in established, balanced reef aquaria.
A prominent manufacturer of these materials was either unwilling or unable
to supply capacities for removing the named compounds from seawater. May
cause adverse reactions in some inverts.
2.5 Mechanical filtration
This is an area of interest currently
being debated. Originally the FAQ stated:
Good idea to pre-filter skimmer
water. Floss works fine and is cheap and disposable. Sponges work well,
but require cleaning twice a week or so. Natural sponges with a medium
fine or fine pore size are recommended. Some people don't use mechanical
filtration, allowing detritus to settle in places for removal by siphoning.
Some of these people make dedicated "settling tanks" to trap debris in
a convenient place. Julian Sprung suggests not pre-filtering skimmer water
as skimmers will remove particulates (rather than trapping them as a pre-filter
would do). Spotte confirms this and terms this filtering mechanismas 'froth
floatation'.
Many members of the group of authors do not
use mechanical filtration. They believe that such systems filter out the
plankton that is used as food by many marine organisms. Some members use
"live sand" setups, with detrivores. Others routinely siphon accumulated
detritus.
Use of a mechanical filter for short periods
may help when attempting to resolve specific problems, such as a hair algae
outbreak.
2.6 Under Gravel Filters (UGF)
Not appropriate for a Reef Tank.
Although they will work for 6 months or so, eventually detritus buildup
will cause a nitrate problem. Long term, it's virtually impossible to keep
nitrates below about 40 ppm NO3- which is way too high for corals.
2.7 Reverse Flow UGFs
An attempt to solve the detritus
buildup problem associated with normal flow UGFs. It's a good idea that
doesn't work well in practice. This system has problems with uneven water
flow due to channeling within the bottom gravel.
2.8 Trickle Filters
Also known as Wet/Dry Filters.
An improvement over UGF and RUGF filters. Nitrates can be kept low (say,
around 5 ppm) with adequate water changes. It does not seem to be possible
to keep nitrates very low (less than 1 ppm) if a trickle filter is the
sole biological filtration. Those that report less than 1 ppm normally
have adequate live rock, and find that their Nitrates remain low even (and
often get lower) when they remove all the bio-material from their trickle
filters (turning them into plain sumps, useful for holding carbon and as
a water reservoir).
2.9 Algae Scrubbers (long)
Summary: the jury is still out.
May help, may hurt, not currently recommended, especially as the sole filter.
The topic is controversial. Below is some discussion about it.
In most healthy natural communities, particularly
coral reefs, dissolved nutrients are scarce. In aquaria, by contrast, nutrients
in the form of dissolved inorganic nitrogen, or DIN, (a collective term
for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates) accumulate very rapidly as fish and
other organisms excrete these wastes. The most basic problem in any aquarium
is limiting the accumulation of DIN.
In reef aquaria, DIN is consumed by the
community of organisms on the live rock. It is uncertain what relative
contribution is made by bacteria as opposed to algaes, but it is certain
that the live rock community as a whole can remove a substantial amount
of DIN from a reef aquarium. In fact, it is quite possible to run a reef
tank with no biological filtration (DIN consumption) other than that which
takes place on the rock. This method is part of what is now known in the
United States as the "Berlin school" of reefkeeping.
Other schools of thought utilize additional
biological filtration in separate filters. Traditional reef tanks supplement
the filtration provided by the reef (often not acknowledging the role of
the reef itself) with bacteria-based trickle filters. Many readers probably
learned this technique first, as it has been the dominant method in the
United States amateur hobby for some time. Yet another approach uses algaes,
which are also capable of utilizing inorganic nitrogen directly. An algae
filter, or algal scrubber as it is usually called, is simply a biological
filter which utilizes a colony of algae rather than bacteria as consumers
of inorganic nitrogen.
Algal scrubbers are not new; they are discussed
in Martin Moe's (1989) excellent _Marine Aquarium Reference: Systems and
Invertebrates, for example. However, algae filters have been regarded in
the past as too bulky and inefficient to be the sole filter for a aquarium.
The recent surge of interest in algal scrubbers seems to have been generated
by Adey and Loveland's book _Dynamic Aquaria_ (1991). They discuss both
techniques which allow an algal scrubber to be compact and efficient and
also a number of arguments as to why they are preferable to other filtration
methods.
One reason to use an algal scrubber according
to Adey and Loveland is that it mirrors the way DIN is cycled in nature.
They claim that perhaps 70-90% of the DIN in reef communities is consumed
by algae, rather than by bacteria. The two methods produce rather different
water chemistry; for example, algae are net producers of oxygen and remove
carbon dioxide, while a bacterial filter consumes oxygen and produces carbon
dioxide. They argue that it should be easier to maintain the type of water
chemistry found over a natural reef by relying on an algal scrubber.
Also, algae remove the nitrogen from the
water in order to build tissue, while filter bacteria simply put it into
a less toxic form. The excess nitrogen can be removed completely by periodic
algae harvests, while dissolved nitrogen in the form of nitrate is not
as easy to remove. Adey and Loveland claim that their methods can bring
levels of DIN down to a few hundredths of a ppm, far below (in their opinion)
the levels reachable with other methods. A related argument in favor of
algal scrubbers is that stability in natural ecosystems seems to come from
locking up nutrients in biomass, not in allowing it to be free in the environment.
An algal scrubber does precisely this, while a bacterial filter converts
it to free nitrate dissolved in the water. A final reason to use an algal
scrubber according to Adey and Loveland is that many other kinds of filtration
(including protein skimmers) remove plankton from the water. An algal filter
naturally does not do this, and can actually provide a refuge for some
forms of plankton. The importance of this effect is, however, a matter
of some debate.
As compelling as some find the above arguments
in theory, there seem to be serious problems with algal scrubbing in practice.
Many attempts by public aquaria at implementing reef tanks using only algal
scrubbing have been failures. In particular, it seems difficult to find
successful long term success with Scleractinia (stony corals) in such tanks,
and those success stories which can be found are quite difficult to verify
and often contradicted by others.
Various public and private aquaria have
used algae scrubber filters on their reef aquaria, with disastrous results.
The microcosm at the Smithsonian Institution has yet to keep scleractinia
alive for more than a year. While Dr. Adey has stated how well corals grow
in this system, those viewing the system have failed to find these corals.
In an interview with Jill Johnson, one of the techs responsible for the
Smithsonian tank, she stated to Frank M. Greco that frequent collecting
trips were needed to keep the system stocked with live scleractinia.
The Pittsburgh AquaZoo also has a "reef"
tank based on Dr. Adey's algal scrubbers. This tank is nothing more than
a pile of rocks covered with filimentous green algae, and the water is
QUITE yellow (as is the Smithsonian tank) from the presence of dissolved
organics (ORP readings have been around 165). As with the Smithsonian tank,
scleractinia do not survive longer than a few months. The same applies
to soft corals as well. When I (Frank M. Greco) saw this tank on May 3,
1993, there were NO living corals to be found even though a collecting
trip to Belize was made several months earlier and 81 pieces of living
scleractinia were brought back. There were, however, two piles of dead
Atlantic scleractinia: one right behind the tank and the other in the greenhouse
housing the algal scrubbers.
The Carnegie Science Museum (Pittsburgh,
PA) also uses an algal scrubber system, but with significant modifications.
This tank looks the best of the three. There are several species of hardy
Scleractinia and soft corals that are doing quite well. The water is clear
(a bit cloudy). The major differences between this system and the other
two is the use of carbon, a small, barely functioning algal scrubber, about
1000 lbs. of excellent quality live rock (Florida), water changes, and
the addition of Sr and Ca.
The last system I know of that uses an
algal scrubber is the Great Barrier Reef Microcosm in Townsville, Australia.
As of this writing, the system is not maintaining live Scleractinia, and
frequent collecting trips are needed in order to replenish the exhibit.
It should also be noted here that while Dr. Adey has claimed in his book
Dynamic Aquaria that corals have spawned in this system, what he doesn't
mention is that the corals which spawned were collected only months before
the known spawning season. From these few examples, it should be clear
that algal scrubbers are NOT to be used in systems containing live scleractinia.
Possible reasons why algal scrubbers seem
to fall short center around the observation that it seems difficult to
control hair algae growth in scrubbed aquaria. Hobbyists have for many
years seen their stony corals slowly pushed back off of their skeleton
and killed by encroaching algaes, and much effort in the hobby has been
devoted to controlling this growth. Only with strict control of algaes
does coral survival seem possible. Most or all reefs with algal scrubbers
seem to have heavy algal growth in the tank as well, which the experience
of the hobby suggests is incompatible with stony coral survival.
The main method used by hobbyists to restrict
algal growth is to reduce nutrient availability; in fact, the claim that
other methods cannot reach the same low levels of DIN achieved by algal
scrubbing is probably not true. Advanced hobbyists are beginning to use
better tests, such as HACH's low level nitrate test, and are finding that
they can achieve nitrate levels below 0.02 ppm. Berlin methods seem particularly
able to reach these levels, which are comparable to that on natural coral
reefs.
If low nutrient levels can be achieved
by both methods, then why is algal growth a much greater problem with scrubber
methods? The answer is not known, but there are two factors which probably
contribute.
First, the discussion so far has mentioned
only inorganic nitrogen. Algaes seem to release much of the inorganic nitrogen
which they take up in the form of dissolved organic compounds (DON), which
can also be later utilized by algaes. The very low levels of DIN measured
in scrubbed tanks may mask the very high levels of DON which persist, providing
nutrients for strong algal growth. This is borne out by many reports that
the water in scrubbed tanks often has a pronounced yellow cast, characteristic
of dissolved organic compounds. Since the water over natural reefs is very
low in DON, high levels may be directly harmful to many corals, in addition
to promoting uncontrolled algal growth.
Another possible effect of algal scrubbing
is more subtle. Algal growth is never completely halted in any marine tank,
merely reduced to the point where macro- and micrograzers can keep them
in close check. The net rate of new growth depends not only on the availability
of nutrients, but also on the amount of existing algal growth releasing
free-floating cells into the water to colonize new sites. Even if the rate
of growth of individual algal colonies is equal, a scrubbed tank has a
growth of algae in the scrubber much larger than a reef tank with little
algal growth anywhere in the system. This possibility suggests that the
presence of the scrubber itself and not merely high levels of DON is an
obstacle to the successful long-term maintenance of stony corals.
The weight of evidence at this point seems
to be against the use of algal scrubbing in reef tanks, and the method
should be considered to be highly experimental. Beginners particularly
are advised to avoid this technique until they have considerably more experience
with reefkeeping. The advanced aquarist may well wish to experiment with
this interesting and controversial method, but it would be unwise to risk
the lives of an entire reef tank full of coral. Such experiments should
progress slowly, beginning with the most hardy of inhabitants. Many of
the objections center on stony coral survival, and it is possible that
scrubbed tanks with fish and hardy invertebrates may do quite well.
2.10 Live Sand
Of relatively recent interest
in the hobby is the use of "live sand". Live sand consist of small grain
(0.5mm-1.0mm) coral sand that is populated with crustaceans and bacteria.
It is normally used at a rate of 10lbs per square foot of bottom area -
which yields about a 1" deep covering. Variations from 1/8" to 3"s of covering
have been reported.
If you decide to have a live sand substrate
bottom, you should include several creatures that will turn-over, or otherwise,
move the sand around. Recommendations include: Sea Cucumbers, Brittle Starfish,
Serpant Starfish, Golden Headed Sleeper Gobies, Yellow Jawfish, Watchman
Gobies, and other detrivoirs. A mix of the above is recommended, since
each creature moves the sand around differently.
Live sand has a reputation of eliminating
the final traces of nitrates in otherwise well run tanks. It also provides
an environment for additional bio-diversity in the tank. Additionally,
some feel that the chemical balance and stability of a tank's water is
improved when live sand is present.
Note that live sand usage should still
be considered experimental. Usage is dependent upon have the sand sifted
and otherwise moved around to prevent detritus from accumulating. Many
people have reported problems keeping their turn-over creatures alive for
long periods of time. Some have not seen the reported nitrate reductions.
Keep in mind that many reef tanks have operated for years without a substrate
and have no detectable nitrate concentrations.
3.0 Lights
3.1 General Discussion
A rough "rule of thumb" is 4 Watts/gallon
with successful tanks using from 1.5 - 6 Watts/gallon.
Fluorescent fine (some prefer) for shallow
(<20") tanks. Use mix of bulbs (50-50, 03s, etc.)
Metal Halide (MH) required for deeper tanks.
Mercury Vapor, Halogen, HPS, etc. - avoid,
wrong spectral output
.
3.2 Detail Discussion
For most aquarium lighting applications,
the bottom line is getting the needed intensity and spectrum of light at
the lowest cost while remaining within aesthetic limits.
A lighting analysis is now presented. Everyone
has their own sets of numbers they would plug in here, for now lets assume
the following for comparison. Many will debate specifics found below. Feel
free to substitute your own numbers, but the methodology is sound.
Bulb cost and performance:
NO lumens per lamp = 2600 (Phillips
F40D daylight, initial)
NO watts per lamp = 40 (ditto)
NO cost per lamp = ~$20 (from memory,
DLS actinic day)
VHO lumens per lamp= 5940 (Phillips F48T12/D/VHO
daylight, initial)
VHO watts per lamp = 110 (ditto)
VHO cost per lamp = ~$30 (ditto)
MH lumens per lamp = 36000 (Philips MH400/U,
initial)
MH watts per lamp = 400 (ditto)
MH cost per lamp = ~$70 (from memory,
Venture 5200K)
operate lamps 12 hours/day
replace lamps once per year
electricity cost = $.09 / KWH (your mileage
may vary)
Annual cost per lumen:
cost = ( cost-per-lamp / lumens-per-lamp
)
+ ( watts-per-lamp / lumens-per-lamp )
* 12 * 365 * .09 / 1000
NO cost = .0077 + .0061 = .0138 dollars
per year per lumen
VHO cost = .0051 + .0073 = .0124 dollars
per year per lumen
MH cost = .0019 + .0044 = .0063 dollars
per year per lumen
Basically, in fluorescents, the VHO lamps
give a higher operating cost but a lower replacement cost for the same
total amount of light. But it's close, and you should plug in your own
numbers to see what's best for you. If you replace lamps more frequently
then VHO is better, if you pay more for power, NO is better. There is a
greater variety of lamps available for NO than VHO. OTOH, it seems that
NO lamps can be operated at VHO power levels, with a somewhat shortened
lifetime (the higher replacement frequency is offset by lower lamp cost),
so this may not be an issue.
The initial installation cost (basically
the ballast cost) is higher for VHO, even in terms of per-lumen, but this
is a pretty small part of the total cost of the lighting system over the
years.
NO requires more lamps for a given total
light intensity, so you may not be able to fit enough NO bulbs in your
hood if you need a lot of light.
MH seems to be a winner in both replacement
and operating costs, but there are a couple of caveats. The math ignores
the effect of the ballasts on power consumption, whereas I've measured
fluorescent power consumption as less than the lamp wattage (even on conventional
transformer ballasts) and MH power consumption as slightly higher than
the lamp wattage. The other caveat is just the EXTREMELY limited choice
of spectrums for MH, which is why few people use MH without any fluorescent.
MH vs fluorescent also gets into the aesthetic
and biological considerations. Water surface ripples causing light ripples
in the aquarium and room are pronounced with MH lighting. Many people appreciate
this effect. Some (e.g. Julian Sprung) feel the variation in light intensity
is actually important for some photosynthetic organisms. Many people are
under the impression MH runs hot, whereas fluorescent doesn't. In reality,
the efficiencies are similar, with MH producing slightly LESS heat than
the equivalent fluorescent. The difference is MH dumps all the heat in
a small space so the local temperature rise is greater. But if you want
to try to get rid of the heat it's actually easier to do it if the heat
is concentrated in one spot, since its easier to get rid of a small amount
of very hot air than a very large amount of warm air.
A separate issue, so far only applicable
to fluorescent, is the selection of a conventional ballast vs an electronic
one. There is no doubt the electronic ones are more expensive to purchase,
but the savings in electricity offset the high initial cost in a year or
so. Also, if heat production is an issue, the electronic ballasts are to
be favored. The Icecap VHO electronic ballast is widely advertised, however
its advertised claims are also frequently questioned. Advance makes a series
of NO electronic ballasts.
There are yet two more issues, for which
there are a lot of questions and too few answers. Specifically, the short
term flicker in light intensity, and radiated electromagnetic fields. Fluorescent
lamps on conventional ballasts flicker at 120 Hz, which is above the human
visual response, so we don't see it (actually, the flicker is both in intensity
and spectrum). But that doesn't mean other creatures can't see it, or whether
they benefit or are disadvantaged by it. Electronic ballasts cause flicker
at ~30 KHz; it is seriously doubtful that any creature can detect this,
so it would appear constant.
The flicker doesn't have to be visible
to have an effect: it causes any movement to appear strobed, and this may
affect the feeding efficiency of visual hunters.
The fields issue is even more obscure.
At least many cartilaginous fish (sharks, rays, etc) are known to be extremely
sensitive to electric fields, and many crustaceans are sensitive to magnetic
fields (crabs with pieces of magnetite in internal sensory organs). Fluorescent
lamps, with the large area they cover, tend to radiate (using the term
pretty loosely) fairly strongly, but MH, and the wiring, and the ballasts
can radiate too. It's unknown on how significant this could be in an aquarium
(but its known sharks preferentially attack undersea cables because of
the fields, so there is at least indirect evidence its an issue worth some
thought).
BTW, a grounding device reduces the level
of induced voltages in the tank, but this is achieved at the expense of
increased induced current, so its effect (if any) may depend on the species.
Also, note if you have a titanium coil chiller on the tank, it is probably
already grounded through the chiller, and an additional ground may in fact
increase the electric current. This should not be an issue with epoxy or
ceramic coated chiller coils.
3.3 Lighting Data (whole section new, and
copyrighted!)
FILE|WATTS|MANUFACTURER|DESCRIPTION |HOURS |TYPE |
T1 400 IWASAKI 6500K M/H
T2 20 LIGHTSOURCE UVB FL
T3 20 LIGHTSOURCE UVB WITH FILTER FL
T4 400 VENTURE 4000K M/H
T5 400 VENTURE 4000K WITH FILTER M/H
T6 400 SYLVANIA 4000K 2400 HOURS M/H
T7 60 CHROMALUX TUNGSTEN
T8 40 CORALIFE 50/50 FL
T9 40 ACTINIC SUN FL
T10 40 PHILLIPS ACTINIC 03 3650 HOURS FL
T11 40 PHILLIPS ACTINIC 03 FL
T12 40 RAINBOW PRIMETINIC FL
T13 40 RAINBOW FLORA_GLOW FL
T14 40 RAINBOW BIO_LUME FL
T15 40 TRITON 3650 HOURS FL
T16 40 DURALIFE POWER TWIST FL
T17 40 HAMILTON SUPER ACTINIC 3650 HOURS FL
T18 40 PKILLIPS ULTRALUME 3650 HOURS FL
T19 40 PERFECTO PERFECTALIGHT FL
T20 40 SYLVANIA 350EL BLACKLIGHT 3650 HOURS FL
T21 40 SYLVANIA 350EL BLACKLIGHT FL
nm T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 T7 T8 T9
280 0 0
290 0.00369 0
300 0.01136 0
310 0.0173 0
320 0.01326 0
330 0.00725 0
340 0.00366 0
350 0.00928 0.00126 0 0.00173 0 0.01344 0.00156 0 0
360 0.01185 0.00155 0 0.03944 0 0.07642 0.00071 0.00012 0.00011
370 0.02 0.00199 0 0.03428 0 0.07363 0.00166 0.00115 0.00104
380 0.03036 0.0007 0 0.0043 0 0.03063 0.00361 0.00086 0.00075
390 0.0446 0.00084 0 0.01287 0 0.05199 0.00574 0.00422 0.00329
400 0.07903 0.00544 0.0014 0.07214 0.01949 0.14805 0.01098 0.02255 0.01686
410 0.08931 0.0058 0.00188 0.06103 0.02356 0.1331 0.01644 0.05968 0.04407
420 0.16201 0.00126 0.00076 0.01713 0.01747 0.06811 0.02291 0.08731 0.06047
430 0.09997 0.01352 0.01175 0.13073 0.13383 0.2202 0.02654 0.09023 0.06469
440 0.08765 0.02331 0.02023 0.1601 0.1598 0.2264 0.03179 0.0736 0.05465
450 0.07976 0.00053 0.00041 0.01077 0.01184 0.04449 0.03795 0.02631 0.02099
460 0.12665 0.00078 0.00072 0.00687 0.00716 0.03796 0.04864 0.01588 0.01347
470 0.15064 0.00074 0.00069 0.01622 0.02078 0.07935 0.06293 0.01061 0.00931
480 0.16282 0.00071 0.00066 0.01501 0.01751 0.07474 0.08342 0.01361 0.0122
490 0.262 0.00081 0.00075 0.01746 0.01798 0.07031 0.10565 0.02889 0.02518
500 0.1875 0.00074 0.00069 0.01715 0.01926 0.07363 0.11878 0.01326 0.01125
510 0.1742 0.03241 0.03973 0.12924 0.11684 0.00561 0.00456
520 0.1746 0.01067 0.01085 0.06063 0.11877 0.00424 0.00337
530 0.1903 0.01495 0.01622 0.06525 0.11566 0.00658 0.00568
540 0.2163 0.2472 0.2453 0.3389 0.17133 0.0945 0.08678
550 0.2249 0.3589 0.3569 0.4931 0.2222 0.10093 0.08811
560 0.1535 0.01939 0.02075 0.07519 0.2276 0.00777 0.00829
570 0.1721 0.15115 0.15653 0.2859 0.11034 0.00485 0.00444
580 0.2015 0.4783 0.47 0.6035 0.04333 0.02203 0.0205
590 0.11089 0.1499 0.10326 0.4279 0.04889 0.02291 0.02103
600 0.13418 0.015 0.01253 0.07882 0.15686 0.01332 0.01218
610 0.12794 0.01226 0.01103 0.0517 0.2926 0.07374 0.06906
620 0.14258 0.02842 0.0302 0.10766 0.3906 0.04382 0.03969
630 0.13358 0.03349 0.03673 0.10084 0.4227 0.02397 0.02217
640 0.11311 0.014 0.01398 0.05127 0.4511 0.00603 0.00571
650 0.09402 0.01115 0.01077 0.04064 0.4742 0.00692 0.00652
660 0.10513 0.01143 0.01088 0.04971 0.4899 0.00584 0.00544
670 0.085 0.01551 0.01315 0.08427 0.4922 0.00403 0.00386
680 0.08657 0.01111 0.01079 0.03203 0.4808 0.0037 0.00358
690 0.09202 0.01929 0.01898 0.03834 0.4944 0.00411 0.00377
700 0.08359 0.00975 0.01033 0.03056 0.5355 0.00286 0.00277
710 0.04801 0.01305 0.01273 0.02949 0.5522 0.00911 0.00917
720 0.05045 0.01045 0.01025 0.03059 0.5485 0.00149 0.0014
730 0.04745 0.00957 0.00941 0.0182 0.4476 0.00042 0.0004
740 0.04609 0.00985 0.00964 0.02177 0.2395 0.00041 0.00039
750 0.04023 0.00983 0.00959 0.01954 0.2498 0.00037 0.00035
nm T10 T11 T12 T13 T14 T15 T16 T17 T18
350 0 0 0.0001 0 0 0 0 0 0.00011
360 0 0 0.00167 0 0 0 0.00144 0 0.00147
370 0 0.00016 0.00087 0.00119 0.00126 0.00145 0.00196 0 0.00133
380 0.00011 0.0007 0.00063 0.00027 0.00017 0.00023 0.00145 0.00011 0.0007
390 0.00403 0.00563 0.00399 0.00033 0.00012 0.00018 0.0021 0.00155 0.00066
400 0.01468 0.0379 0.02569 0.00377 0.00299 0.0037 0.00745 0.02094 0.00546
410 0.04403 0.12285 0.07521 0.00446 0.00432 0.00611 0.00952 0.08984 0.0083
420 0.06681 0.1955 0.12078 0.00138 0.00651 0.00983 0.0078 0.15751 0.00904
430 0.06231 0.1714 0.13584 0.01281 0.03371 0.03597 0.02406 0.14212 0.03191
440 0.04237 0.10573 0.1221 0.0229 0.0599 0.05814 0.03307 0.08825 0.04797
450 0.01287 0.03535 0.05784 0.00225 0.04818 0.04703 0.0128 0.03013 0.02376
460 0.00567 0.01538 0.03935 0.00271 0.04462 0.05381 0.01496 0.01326 0.02429
470 0.00268 0.00698 0.02608 0.00332 0.03433 0.0541 0.01834 0.0061 0.02294
480 0.00125 0.00319 0.02679 0.00396 0.02981 0.05097 0.02108 0.00287 0.03173
490 0.00082 0.00195 0.05095 0.00486 0.03909 0.04972 0.02354 0.00178 0.05773
500 0.00062 0.00051 0.02319 0.00537 0.02092 0.03006 0.02579 0.00056 0.02643
510 0.00037 0.00073 0.00728 0.00672 0.01013 0.01802 0.02974 0.00079 0.01024
520 0.0003 0.00056 0.00496 0.00985 0.00732 0.01111 0.03445 0.00064 0.0078
530 0.00027 0.00049 0.00645 0.016 0.00668 0.01075 0.03592 0.00056 0.013
540 0.00623 0.01053 0.13192 0.03586 0.07958 0.0697 0.04315 0.00846 0.1921
550 0.01079 0.0185 0.1251 0.05488 0.07655 0.06983 0.04723 0.01463 0.1743
560 0.00028 0.00038 0.01025 0.04627 0.00731 0.0088 0.02902 0.00035 0.02394
570 0.00061 0.00085 0.00549 0.05201 0.00444 0.00586 0.02876 0.00069 0.01534
580 0.00314 0.00569 0.03686 0.0556 0.02172 0.0227 0.032 0.00446 0.04439
590 0.00039 0.00047 0.03892 0.04418 0.01716 0.02913 0.02544 0.00044 0.04907
600 0.00013 0.00051 0.01518 0.04409 0.00375 0.02508 0.0284 0.00036 0.03261
610 0.00126 0.00136 0.09569 0.04722 0.01159 0.16014 0.03433 0.00087 0.14292
620 0.0009 0.0015 0.06356 0.05247 0.04658 0.07106 0.03533 0.0013 0.08503
630 0.00057 0.00087 0.0269 0.06004 0.06313 0.03852 0.03461 0.00084 0.04806
640 0.0003 0.0006 0.00674 0.05213 0.05384 0.0087 0.03259 0.00043 0.01323
650 0.00025 0.00047 0.00797 0.07652 0.1192 0.01039 0.0305 0.00036 0.01485
660 0.00026 0.00049 0.00564 0.10016 0.1775 0.00799 0.02782 0.00039 0.01222
670 0.00023 0.00043 0.00554 0.04559 0.06493 0.00461 0.02474 0.00035 0.00851
680 0.0002 0.00039 0.00499 0.02232 0.01908 0.00396 0.02155 0.00031 0.00761
690 0.00032 0.00056 0.00425 0.01701 0.00976 0.00639 0.01861 0.00047 0.00787
700 0.00022 0.00041 0.00348 0.01193 0.00434 0.00551 0.01536 0.00032 0.00583
710 0.00041 0.00077 0.01145 0.00964 0.00302 0.01905 0.01322 0.0006 0.01719
720 0.00022 0.00049 0.00167 0.00712 0.0013 0.00286 0.01038 0.00034 0.00305
730 0 0.00013 0.00044 0.00546 0.00072 0.00068 0.00827 0 0.00054
740 0 0.00012 0.00045 0.0044 0.00059 0.00075 0.00685 0 0.00098
750 0 0.00013 0.0004 0.00352 0.00045 0.00071 0.00559 0 0.00093
nm T19 T20 T21
300 0
310 0.01441
320 0.00473
330 0.01484
340 0.03041
350 0 0.01513 0.02693
360 0.0001 0.01831 0.03403
370 0.00144 0.01491 0.02582
380 0.00097 0.00948 0.01617
390 0.00474 0.0052 0.00903
400 0.00806 0.00633 0.00942
410 0.01157 0.00532 0.00778
420 0.01243 0.00154 0.00258
430 0.02928 0.01093 0.01555
440 0.0403 0.01854 0.02698
450 0.0223 0.00053 0.00163
460 0.0258 0.00069 0.00137
470 0.02929 0.00061 0.00124
480 0.03084 0.00057 0.00072
490 0.03039 0.00076 0.00119
500 0.02779 0.00063 0.00101
510 0.02431 0.00037 0.0007
520 0.02064 0.00029 0.00056
530 0.01756 0.00028 0.00048
540 0.02217 0.00924 0.00974
550 0.02535 0.01594 0.01769
560 0.00816 0.00029 0.00033
570 0.00725 0.00062 0.00081
580 0.0119 0.00497 0.00639
590 0.00888 0.00044 0.00042
600 0.00953 0.00035 0.00037
610 0.05257 0.00111 0.00114
620 0.03046 0.00129 0.00145
630 0.03244 0.00082 0.00089
640 0.02281 0.00047 0.00047
650 0.04607 0.00035 0.00037
660 0.06831 0.00039 0.00038
670 0.02469 0.00033 0.00034
680 0.00813 0.0003 0.0003
690 0.00567 0.00046 0.00047
700 0.00362 0.00031 0.00032
710 0.0071 0.00062
720 0.00146 0.00033
730 0.00059 0
740 0.00052 0
750 0.00045 0
ALL DATA CONTAINED WITHIN IS
COPTRIGHT 1994 BY FRANK M. GRECO (baldbruce@aol.com)
AND TO BE USED ONLY WITH PERMISSION OF ONE OR BOTH OF THESE PEOPLE.
4.0 Cost Estimates
Here is a rough estimate of what
setting up a reef tank may cost. Two cases are included: a 20g micro-reef
and a 70g mini-reef. The estimates show the min and max for most of the
common pieces of equipment. The estimates assume a standard type of filtration
that is popular today. If a different setup is used, the price could be
more or less. The equipment includes a tank with some sort of siphon/drain
to a sump and then a return pump back to the tank. A protein skimmer is
installed in the sump. This setup is similar to a typical wet/dry trickle
filter except there is no trickle section with media. This allows the use
of simpler, less expensive sump although a commercial W/D without media
could be used. A trickle media could be utilized at greater cost although
many reefkeepers think it is unnecessary. Keep in mind that prices sometimes
vary geographically. Also, availability may vary. For example, reasonable
Florida live rock may soon no longer be available (at least not for $2-4/lb)
.
The estimates include the cost of the initial
set-up. There is also a section on ongoing costs. The ongoing cost will
vary greatly, especially considering that you will stock your tank gradually.
Keep in mind that you always end up spending more than you think you will.
If you set up a reef, you will end up stopping at the hardware store and/or
aquarium store for timers, extensions cords, GFIs (a must!), buckets, hoses,
and books, don't for forget books. You should read a few books on reefkeeping
before even planning your setup. An extra hundred bucks or three is
going to leak out of your wallet whether you plan on it or not. Another
factor is that more advanced equipment may translate into less or easier
maintenance. You should keep in mind that if you go with inferior equipment,
maintaining the tank will be more work. More expense will mean more automated
equipment and less work. Also, some varieties of inverts require more exacting
condition, more light, etc. Plan your purchases so that the stock you buy
has a chance of surviving with the equipment you are using. If you have
a bare minimum system, stick hardy items like soft-corals, polyps, mushrooms,
etc.
The minimum included is close to rock-bottom
as far as an acceptable systems goes. It assumes that you are DIYing much
of the equipment as cheaply as possible. The maximum in the estimate is
in some areas a little extravagant but not unreasonable. A good system
that is not extravagant could be put together for somewhere in between
the two extremes. Perhaps, for 1.25 to 2 times the minimum, you would have
a very nice system. Some areas are easier to cut-corners on than others
and some of the initial cost may be incremental, like buying test kits
as needed. Also, you may have some of the equipment already from previous
set-ups or be buying it used. Seek out the advice of an experienced reefkeeper
then planning and pricing your system.
MicroReef (20g)
Tank $ 20/ 140 Glass/
Acrylic.
Stand 0/ 250 Sturdy piece of furniture/
Fancy acrylic stand.
Lights 100/ 300 DIY 60W fluorescent/
70W or 150W MH hood or pendant.
Main Pump 20/ 60 Large powerhead/
Hobby pump.
Sump 10/ 120 A plastic storage container from the
hardware store / A small commercial W/D
without media. (A nice DIY acrylic
sump can be built for about $40.)
Skimmer 60/ 220 DIY skimmer, power head, air pump/
Small commercial venturi unit with
integral pump.
Plumbing 30/ 100 DIY overflow and misc pipes, etc/
Drilled tank or commercial overflow box
plus misc pipes, etc.
Live-Rock 140/ 400 35lb case of Fla rock plus shipping/
30lbs of Pacific rock plus shipping.
Water Treatment 100/ 600 DIY mixed-bed DI with carbon prefilter/
TFC RO unit with DI postfilter and
automated top-off.
Test Kits 100/ 500 A SW combo kit plus and Alk and Ca test/
Most of the Lamotte and/or Hach kits
you think you might need.
Salt 10/ 20 One 50g bag, price varies.
Accessories 20/ 200 There are a variety of gadgets you could
get. You might want to start with a
net or two and maybe a pair of tongs.
---- ----
Setup Total $ 610 2910
MicroReef (70g)
Tank $ 140/ 350 Glass/
Acrylic.
Stand 100/ 500 Cheap wood or iron stand/
p Fancy acrylic stand.
Lights 200/ 600 DIY 160W fluorescent/
2x150-175 MH hood (possibly with Actinics).
Main Pump 80/ 140 400-600gph, price varies with brand.
Sump 10/ 200 A plastic storage container from the
hardware store / a commercial W/D
without media. A nice DIY acrylic
sump can be built for about $50.
Skimmer 80/ 450 A DIY skimmer,powerhead,air pump/
A large commercial venturi unit
with a large pump driving it.
Plumbing 50/ 150 DIY overflow and misc pipes, etc/
Drilled tank or commercial overflow box
plus misc pipes, etc.
Live-Rock 460/1200 140lbs Fla rock plus shipping/
110lbs Pacific rock plus shipping.
Water Treatment 100/ 600 DIY mixed-bed DI with carbon prefilter/
TFC RO unit with mixed-bed DI
postfilter and automated top-off.
Test Kits 100/ 500 A SW combo kit plus and Alk and Ca test/
Most of the Lamotte and/or Hach kits
you think you might need.
Salt 20/ 40 Two 50g bags, price varies.
Accessories 40/ 500 There are a variety of gadgets you could
get. You might want to start with a
net or two and maybe a pair of tongs.
You could get wave-makers, circulation
pumps and lots of other do-dads.
Chiller 0/ 600 Don't use a chiller, live somewhere cool,
keep the tank in the basement, or an
adequately air-conditioned room/
A commercial chiller.
---- ----
Setup-Total 1380 5830
Ongoing Costs
Additives- Most reefkeepers believe that some additives are necessary.
At minimum, a buffer compound is needed to maintain the alkalinity.
Also, some Calcium supplement such as Kalkwasser or Cacl2 should
be used. A few trace additives like Strontium and Iodine/Iodide
should also be added. The initial supply of these products will
be around $50. The ongoing rate will vary depending on the size
of the tank.
Water Purifier- If you go with a DI system, you will have to replace
and/or recharge resin. An RO system will require periodic
replacement of the membrane. In the long run, maintenance
of the RO is likely cheaper.
Test Kits Reagents- You will need replace reagents for the tests kits.
Also, the minimum given above is may not be adequate. The
typical SW combo kits are not of low enough range for reef work.
They will only be of use during the first few weeks of
cycling/curing. That estimate assume that you will acquire
the better tests over time or have access to someone else's
expensive tests should you need to diagnose a problem.
Electricity- You will need it to run the pumps and lights. It won't be
insignificant. Electric costs vary. Check the KW cost
on your electric bill. Add up wattage of all the equipment you
are using, pumps 24hrs/day, lights 12hrs/day. Calculate what
the electricity will cost. Don't forget cooling, in many areas,
you will need either a chiller or will have to air-condition the
room where the reef is kept. The lights will generate heat. At
minimum, your AC bill will also go up accordingly. Electricity
mini-reef system could easily be a couple hundred bucks a year.
Water- In some areas, water is expensive. RO units waste several times
what they produce in water. This could add a little more expense.
Salt-
You may want to do water changes in which case you will eventually need
more salt. Salt mixes run $10-$25 per 50 gallon mix.
Lights- Fluorescent tubes and
MH bulbs wear out. Fluorescent tubes are usually okay for nine months to
a year before spectrum shifts and/output reduced significantly. Some tubes,
like actinics, may need replacement as frequently as every six months.
Replacement MH bulbs is recommended about every one to two years (depending
upon spectral shift and output degradation). Add up the cost of your tubes
and figure in the replacement cost based on the estimated lifetime. Stocking-
This can really vary. You probably shouldn't have more than a couple fish
in the micro-reef and not more than a handful in the mini-reef. The typical
fish suitable for a reef will be from $10(small goby or blenny) to $30(small
angel or tang). You could spend $300 on one purple tang though. Pieces
of coral, decorative rocks, giant clams and other sessile inverts start
at around $20 a piece and go to many hundreds a piece. Snails range from
about $1/each to about $8/each and are recommended for controlling algae.
Other motive inverts likes shrimp range from about $10 to $30. You probably
should start with the snails as soon as the live rock is in the tank. You
don't have to have any fish if you don't want any. You don't have to have
inverts either although that is probably why you set up a reef tank. Just
quality live-rock is very of nice to look at but sooner or later you will
likely want something else in your tank. The invert stocking will be very
incremental and should be. It is not heathly to add a lot of stock at once.
You can spread you stocking over up to several years. You could spend anywhere
from say $100 to $750 on the micro-reef and $200 to $10,000 on the mini-reef.
5.0 Stock
5.1 Common to Scientific Name Cross Reference
The following cross reference
was originally provided by Steve Rader:
Bubble coral Plerogyra sinuosa
Closed Brain coral Favia sp, sometimes Diploria sp.
Clubbed Finger coral Porites porites
Colony anemonies Telia sp
Common Star coral Montastrea annularis
Cup coral Turbinaria peltata
Dead brain coral Favia sp
Elegance coral Catalaphyllia jardinei (was plicata)
Elephant Ear coral Rhodactius sp
Elkhorn coral Acropora palmata
Fire coral Millepora alcicornis
Fire coral Sinalaris sp
Flower Pot coral Goniopora sp
Flower coral Eusmilia fastigiata
Frog's Spawn coral Euphyllia cristata, E. glabrescens
Euphyllia divisa (Veron)
Giant Mushroom polyps Rhodactius sp
Gorgonians Gorgonacea sp
Grape coral Physogyra lichensteini
Hammer coral Euphyllia ancora, E. fimbriata
Knobbed Brain coral Diploria clivosa, D. strigosa
Labyrinthine Brain coral Diploria labyrinthiformis
Large Flower coral Mussa angulosa
Large Star coral Montastrea cavernosa
Leather coral Sarcophyton sp
Lettuce coral Agaricia agaricites, Turbinaria sp
Mat anemonies Zoanthus pulchellus, other Z. sp
Moon coral Galaxea fascicalaris
Mushroom anemonies Actinodiscus sp
Mushroom coral Fungia actinoformis
Mushroom polyps Actinodiscus sp, Rhodactius sp, Sarcophyton sp
Open Brain coral Trachyphyllia geofroyi
Orange cup coral Balanophyllia elegans, Turbinaria sp
Pilar coral Dendrogyra cylindrus
Porous coral Porites astreoides
Rose coral Manicina areolata
Sea Mat anemonies Ricordia sp
Small Bubble coral Physosyra lichensteini
Staghorn coral Acropora cervicornis
Star polyps Clavularia sp
Strawberry anemonies Telia sp
Tooth coral Catalaphyllia jardinei (was plicata)
Torch coral Euphyllia ancora, E. glabrescens (Veron)
Tree coral Sinularis sp
Waving Hand coral Anthelia sp
Xenia coral Xenia sp
And going the other way...
Acropora cervicornis Staghorn coral
Acropora palmata Elkhorn coral
Actinodiscus sp Mushroom anemonies
Actinodiscus sp Mushroom polyps
Agaricia agaricites Lettuce coral
Anthelia sp Waving Hand coral
Balanophyllia elegans Orange cup coral
Catalaphyllia jardinei Elegance coral, Tooth coral
Clavularia sp Star polyps
Dendrogyra cylindrus Pilar coral
Diploria clivosa Knobbed Brain coral
Diploria labyrinthiformis Labyrinthine Brain coral
Diploria strigosa Knobbed Brain coral
Euphyllia ancora Hammer coral, Torch coral
Euphyllia cristata Frog's Spawn coral
Euphyllia divisa Frog's Spawn coral (Veron)
Euphyllia fimbriata Hammer coral
Euphyllia glabrescens Torch coral (Veron), Frog's Spawn coral
Eusmilia fastigiata Flower coral
Favia sp Closed Brain coral, Dead brain coral
Fungia actinoformis Mushroom coral
Galaxea fascicalaris Moon coral
Goniopora sp Flower Pot coral
Gorgonacea sp Gorgonians
Manicina areolata Rose coral
Millepora alcicornis Fire coral
Montastrea annularis Common Star coral
Montastrea cavernosa Large Star coral
Mussa angulosa Large Flower coral
Physogyra lichensteini Grape coral, Small Bubble coral
Plerogyra sinuosa Bubble coral
Porites astreoides Porous coral
Porites porites Clubbed Finger coral
Rhodactius sp Elephant Ear coral, Giant Mushroom polyps
Ricordia sp Sea Mat anemonies
Sarcophyton sp Leather coral, Mushroom polyps
Sinularis sp Fire coral, Tree coral
Tubastrea sp Orange Cup coral
Turbinaria peltata Cup coral
Telia sp Colony anemonies, Strawberry anemonies
Trachyphyllia geofroyi Open Brain coral
Xenia sp Xenia coral
Zoanthus pulchellus Mat anemonies
Zoanthus sp Mat anemonies
5.2 Coral Agression chart
Also provided by Steve Rader:
I've typed in a useful table from
SeaScope (winter, '92) in which Michael Paletta discusses coral aggression
in reef aquaria. It describes the two major aggressive mechanisms of corals:
the release of terpenoid compounds and the use of sweeper tentacles or
mesenteric filaments. I found it useful because it includes a majority
of imported live corals.
The entries marked with a tilde are my
additions--Telia anemonies are placed above open brain coral because I've
observed them burn my red open brain coral. Both types of colonial zooanthid
anemonies listed seem to release terpenoids that keep mushroom polyps at
bay somewhat. Also, I've included other common names I know of in quotes.
Relative Aggressiveness of Commonly Kept Reef Invertebrates
MOST AGGRESSIVE...
1) Elegance Coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei, "Tooth coral")
2) Hammer Coral (Euphyllia ancora, E. fimbriata, "Torch coral")
3) Other Euphyllia (E. glabrescens, E. cristala., "Frog's spawn coral")
4) Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa)
5) Grape Coral (Physosyra lichensteini, "Small bubble coral")
6) Mushroom Coral (Fungia actinoformis)
7) Flower Pot Coral (Goniopora sp.)
~) Telia Anemonies (Telia sp, "Strawberry anemonies; Colony anemonies")
8) Open Brain Coral (Trachyphyllia geofroyi
9) Cup Coral (Taxbinaria peltata
10) Moon Coral (Galaxea fascicalaris
11) Closed Brain Coral (Favia spead brain coral")
12) Star Polyps (Clavalaria sp.
13) Leather Coral (Sarccphyton sp
14) Tree Coral (Sinalaris spFire coral")
15) Gorgoniana (Gorgonacea sp.)
16) Waving Hand (Anthelia sp.)
17) Xenia (Xenia sp.)
18) Giant Mushrooms (Rhodactius sp., "Elephant ear coral")
~) Sea Mat Anemonies (Zooanthus sp., "Sea mat rock")
~) Ricordia Anemonies (Ricordia sp. "Sea mat rock")
19) Mushroom Anemonies (inodiscus sp., "Mushroom polyps")
...LEAST AGGRESSIVE
Key to Stock detail
Key sp. - generic species description.
cdf - captive difficulty
0-9 0=beginner, 5=experienced, 9=advanced
fll - florescent lighting (50% tri-color white and 50% actinic)
0-9 0=1.5 watts/gal, 5=4.5 watts/gal, 9=7.5 watts/gal
Multiply [fll] values with applicable inefficient factors.
non-48" tubes ((watts/gal) * 1.3)
HO tubes ((watts/gal) * 1.3)
VHO tubes ((watts/gal) * 1.7)
non-tricolor tubes ((watts/gal) * 1.3)
dff - distance from florescent 0-36 inches
mhl - metal halide lighting
0-9 0=1 watt/gal, 5=3 watts/gal, 9=5 watts/gal
dfm - distance from metal halide 0-36 inches
wcu - water current level
0-9 0=stagnant, 5=medium, 9=turbulent
hac - hair algae comptatability.
0-9 0=none, 5=some algae, 9=heavy algae
fod - food source
sym - symbiotic algae nutrients
mpl - microplankton
zpl - zooplankton (baby artemia)
lfd - liquid coral foods
chf - chunk frozen foods
add - additives required
str - strontium iod - iodine
cal - calcium irn - iron
vit - vitamins mlb - molybendium
ptm - potassium
note - This is not a listing of all known corals. Just those for which
some data is known concerning captive requirements.
Cnidaria [Anthozoa]
a SubClass Zoantharia [Hexacorillia]
Order Scleractinia [Madreporaria] (true stony corals) ~2,000 species.
Family Poritidae
Porites (pore)
sp. - (xmas rocks) Encrusting growths. Extremelly small polyp.
Most are brown but can be green, blue, pink and purple.
Massive, branched or encrusting.
cdf=6, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= >10
wcu=1-6, hac=0, fod=sym, add=cal/str
Goniopora (flowerpot or daisy)
Goniopora are similar to Alveopora, except that Goniopora
have 24 tentacles on each polyp, and Alveopora have 12.
lobata - (flowerpot) Medium-polyp. Skeleton shapes are varied.
Very difficult and rarely kept more then two years.
Flower-like polyps extend out from base.
cdf=9, fll=5-9, dff= <20, mhl=1-7, dfm= <30
wcu=2-6, fod=sym
stokesi - (flowerpot) Medium-polyp. Longer polyps than lobata
(10-15cm). Polyps extend out very far. Brown, gray,
green or blue. Skeleton is spherical or half spherical
in shape.
cdf=9, fll=5-9, dff= <20, mhl=1-7, dfm= <30
wcu=2-6, fod=sym
Alveopora (flower)
sp. - Medium-polyp. Very similar to goniopora but polyp ten-
tacles are shorter. Brown or bluish. Stung by Euphyllia
and Plerogyra. Alveopora has 12 tentacles on each
polyp while Gonipora have 24.
cdf=7, fll=5-9, dff= <20, mhl=1-7, dfm= <30
wcu=2-6, fod=sym/zpl
Family Pocilloporidae
Pocillopora (cauliflower stony)
sp. - Very small polyp. UV pigments green, turquoise or pink.
Most are arborescent, ocassionally massive or encrust-
ing. Branched ecomorphs have rounded tips.
cdf=9, mhl=5-9, dfm= <15, wcu=3-7, hac=0,
fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Seriatopora (bush)
sp. - Small polyp. Pink, white, brown or green. Long, slender
and tapered btanches. Stung by Actinodiscus and
Cladiella. Can be propagated by fragmentation.
cdf=5, mhl=4-9, dfm= <15, wcu=3-7, hac=0,
fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Family Acroporidae
Acropora (finger and branch)
sp. - Small-polyp. Most have branching ecomorphs. Rare
massive and encrusting growths occur. Branching forms
include staghorns, clusters, plates and tables. Colors
include blue, green, purple, pink, cream, yellow, brown
or red. Well over 100 species exist. Can be propagated
by fragmentation. Stung by Actinodiscus
cdf=8, mhl=4-9, dfm= <15, wcu=4-9, hac=0,
fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
palmata - (elkhorn) Atlantic. Stout thick branches or encrust-
ing. Flattened horizontally. Can be fragmented.
cdf=8, mhl=4-9, dfm= <15, wcu=4-9, hac=0,
fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
cervicornis - (staghorn) Atlantic. Long thin branches. Very
rapid growth rate.
cdf=8, mhl=4-9, dfm= <15, wcu=4-9, hac=0,
fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Family Faviidae
Favia (moon or star)
sp. - Medium-polyp. Leaf, flat or half-sphere forms. Polyps in
large cups. Tentacles unfold at night. Brown, white or
yellow. UV pigments green. Can sting other corals with
tentacles or secretions.
cdf=4, fll=4-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-6, dfm= <24, wcu=3-7,
hac=2, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Favites (moon or star)
sp. - Medium-polyps. Leaf, flat or half-sphere forms. Polyps in
large cups. Tentacles unfold at night. Brown, pink or
red. UV pigments green. Can sting other corals with ten-
tacles or secretions.
cdf=4, fll=4-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-6, dfm= <24, wcu=3-7,
hac=2, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Leptoria (closed brain)
phrygia - Small polyps. Massive growths. Tentacles retracted
during day. Brown or green. Patterned valleys.
cdf=5, fll=5-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3 dfm= <36, wcu=2-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Diploria (closed brain)
sp. - Massive and rounded. Can be flattened or encrusted.
Yellow, brown, greenish or gray-brown. Tentacles ex-
pand out at night.
cdf=5, fll=5-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=2-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Manicina (folded)
areolata - Large-polyps. Very similar to Trachyphyllia geofroyi.
Tentacles extend at night.
cdf=3, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=4-8,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Caulastrea (tooth)
sp. - Large-polyp. Branching coral. Each branch end has a
large rounded polyp. Tentacles extend out a night.
Green, brown, gray and blue. Similar to some Euphyllia
species.
cdf=5, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=4-8,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Family Oculinidae
Galaxea (crystal or scapel)
fascicularis - (crystal or galaxy) Medium-polyps. Small rounded
heads. UV pigments green. Tentacles extended during
the day.
cdf=7, mhl=0-6, dfm= <36, wcu=4-8,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Family Agariciidae
Pachyseris (phonograph-record)
speciosa - Large-Polyp. Valleys form grooves. Green or red
natural pigment.
cdf=4, fll=4-9, dff= <24, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=4-8,
hac=0, fod=sym/mpl, add=cal/str
Family Caryophylliidae
Euphyllia (bouquet)
fimbriata - (hammer or anchor or ridge) Large-polyp. Straight
tentacles with u-shaped or hammer shaped tips. Can
extend tentacles out very far and sting other corals.
cdf=6, fll=4-9, dff= <24, mhl=0-7, dfm= <36, wcu=3-7,
hac=1, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
crista - (bubble-tentacled) Large-polyp. Beige or light brown.
Some are green. Tentacles branch into 3 or more twigs
at end. Rounded tips are white. Can extend tentacles
out very far and sting other corals.
cdf=5, fll=4-9, dff= <24, mhl=0-7, dfm= <36, wcu=3-7,
hac=1, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
glabrescens - (torch) Large-polyp. Straight tentacles with
white tips. Can extend tentacles out very far and
sting other corals.
cdf=7, fll=4-9, dff= <24, mhl=0-7, dfm= <36, wcu=3-7,
hac=1, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
divisa - (frogspawn or wall or vase) Large-polyp. Green or
light brown.Tentacles sub-branch with numerous rounded
bumps. These are white or yellow. Can extend tentacles
out very far .
cdf=5, fll=4-9, dff= <24, mhl=0-6, dfm= <36, wcu=3-7,
hac=1, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Catalaphyllia (wonder or scalloped)
jardinei - (elegance, meat, wonder) Large-polyp. Tentacles alway
extended. Have white or red tips. UV pigment green. Can
sting very strongly.
cdf=2, fll=4-9, dff= <24, mhl=0-7, dfm= <36, wcu=2-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Plerogyra (bladder)
sinuosa - (bubble or bladder) Large-polyp. Expand to bubble
polyps in day and tentacles at night. Natural pigment
white. Can be green or pink.Very strong sting.
cdf=1, fll=3-9, dff= <24, mhl=0-5, dfm= <36, wcu=2-7,
hac=1, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Family Mussidae
Lobophyllia (umbel)
sp. - Large-polyp. Fleshy mantle. Olive to dark green. Some-
times pinkish or red.
cdf=3, fll=4-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-2, dfm= <36, wcu=4-8,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Isophyllia (atlantic folded)
sp. - Large-polyp. Deep red natural pigment for deep specimens.
Green, beige or turquoise for shallow water.
cdf=3, fll=4-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-2, dfm= <36, wcu=3-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Scolymia (caribbean goblet)
vitiensis - Large one polyp coral. Fleshy mantle. Tentacles out
at night. UV pigments green.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=2-5,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Cynarina [Acanthophyllia] (goblet)
lacrymalis - Large one polyp coral. Fleshy mantle. Tentacles out
at night. UV pigments green.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=2-5,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Family Dendrophylliidae
Tubastrea (red or yellow cup)
aurea - (red or yellow cup) Natural pigment yellow to shiny
orange. Medium large polyp. Tentacles partially extend-
ed during day and fully at night.
cdf=1, fll=0-4, dff= <30, wcu=4-8,
hac=0, fod=zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Turbinaria (dish or crater)
sp. - Large-polyp. Vase shaped, leaf, fans or folds. Brownish,
yellow, white or green. Tentacles partially or fully
extended during the day.
cdf=5, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=2-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Family Trachyphylliidae
Trachyphyllia (large polyp or open brain)
geofroyi - (open-brain or crater or puff) Large-polyps. Natural
pigment color gray-green, beige-brown, rust brown to
deep red. UV pigment green, torquoise or blue. Ten-
tacles extend at night.
cdf=3, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-3, dfm= <36, wcu=2-6,
hac=3, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Family Fungiidae
Fungia (mushroom stony corals)
sp. - Single large-polyp. Pale-brown, pink, purple, blue and
green. Short tentacles are usually retracted during
the day. Usually round but can take on different eco-
morphs. Elongated forms have groved mouth.
cdf=8, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-5, dfm= <36, wcu=3-8,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Heliofungia (plate)
actiniformis - Single large polyp. Gray, blue or green long
tentacles always extended during the day. Paler tips.
Prefers sandy substrate.
cdf=7, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-4, dfm= <36, wcu=2-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Polyphllia (boomerang)
talpina - Large-polyp. Extremelly elongated. Tentacles extend-
ed during the day and short Has central groove. Brown
or paler in color.
cdf=4, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-5, dfm= <36, wcu=3-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
Herpolitha (hedgehog)
limax - Large-polyp. Extremelly elongated. Tentacles extended
during the day and short Has central groove. Brown or
paler in color. Very similar to Polyphyllia talpina.
cdf=4, fll=3-9, dff= <20, mhl=0-5, dfm= <36, wcu=3-7,
hac=0, fod=sym/zpl/chf, add=cal/str
- Order Corallimorpharia (mushroom or false corals)
Family Actinodiscidae
Actinodiscus (disk anemones or mushroom coral)
malaccensis - (brown or fuzzy) Surface covered with small bush
like forms. Light or beige brown and gray green. Brown
specimens found in deeper water. Gray green will fade
if light to low.
cdf=1, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-4, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
mutabilis - (color changing) Light to dusty brown. They are
often speckled with green and with irridescent edges.
Can change some color. Smooth surface with wide bumps.
In nature, below 10 meters.
cdf=1, fll=3-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
ferrugatus - (red-brown) Color is from red-brown to rust-brown.
Smooth surface with wide bumps. Do not like direct metal
halide. In nature exist at around 10 meters.
cdf=1, fll=3-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
ruber - (reddish-fluorescent or mettalic red mushrooms) Pink to
bright fluorescent red due to UV pigments. Do not like
direct metal halide light. Radial groves and very small
bumps on smooth surface.
cdf=1, fll=3-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
nummiferus - (burled) From light pink through reddish brown to
a dusty violet. Darker ones occur in shallow waters.
Slightly fluorescent. Small bumps on smooth surface.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
cardinalis - (shiny red) Deep red. Darker red bumps over smooth
surface. Expensive and rare. Like actinic light but not
direct metal halide.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
marmoratus - (marbled or green marble mushrooms) Found in less
than 5 meters. Slightly rough surface with numerous
bumps of different color. Do not like direct metal
halide light.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-3, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
coeruleus - (shiny blue or metallic blue mushrooms) Smooth blue
surface with faint radial lines. Very small bumps can
occur. Very deep dwelling > 20 meters. Never tolerates
direct metal halide light. Can expand very large.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
striatus - (striped) Many different color patterns. Beige-green
ones have symbiotic algae pigment dominate the uv pig-
ment and assimilation pigment. Can have perfectly smooth
disk or contain small bumps. All have radial brightly
colored stripes.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
punctatus - (dotted) Main surface body smooth and brown. Have
very large colorful bumps with uv pigment. Direct metal
halide light could be fatal.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
Ricordia (caribbean disk anemones)
florida - (caribbean or flower anemones) Colors range from light
green to a very beautiful dark green to blue and orange.
Surface is covered with short tentacles which can in-
flate to become bubble-like. Usually found between 10
and 40 feet in the ocean. When tentacles on rim of disk
extended will accept small peices of brine shrimp, etc.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= <36
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/chf, add=iod/vit
Rhodactis [Discosoma] (elephant ear)
viridis - (green elephant ear) Luminescent turquoise-green ten-
tacle disk. Like a giant fuzzy mushroom.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-4, dfm= <36
wcu=2-6, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/chf, add=iod/vit
neglecta - (caribbean elephant ear) Green with some surface.
Radial lines and bumps along with sharp points on edge.
Can become ballon shaped greedy eaters. Do not like
direct metal halide light.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-5, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/chf, add=iod/vit
maeandrinea - (large or folded elephant ear) Very large with a
diameter greater than 15 cm. Can grow to 40 cm in cap-
tivity. Sandy to dark brown or gray green. Smooth disk
with vertical smooth tenatcles. Do not like strong
current or direct metal halide light. Can catch fish or
shrimps in ballon-like trap.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=1-5, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/chf, add=iod/vit
plumosa - (carpet elephant ear or carpet mushrooms) Large fuzzy
coral with bushy tentacles. Will eat some chunk food.
Can form bubble trap.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= <36
wcu=2-5, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/chf, add=iod/vit
- Order Zoanthiniaria [Zoantharia][Zoanthidea] ~300 species
(Encrusting anemones)
Family Epizoanthidae
Parazoanthus (yellow polyps)
sp. - Small polyps with very long thin tentacles. Bright yel-
low to dark yellow. Polyps not connected.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-7, dfm= <24
wcu=4-7, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/vit
Epizoanthus
sp. - Medium sized small colonial polyp disks with medium sized
tentacles. Fedd mostly on zooplankton. Brown to cinna-
mon colored.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-7, dfm= <24
wcu=4-7, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/vit
Family Zoanthidae
Zoanthus (encrusting anemones)
sp. - Small circular colonial polyps which have a ring of short
tentacles around the rim. Shallow water species have
UV pigmentation from red, green, turquoise, lemon yel-
low to orange. The mouth, disk and tentacles can be of
different coloration. Polyps connected at base.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-7, dfm= <24
wcu=3-7, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/vit
sociatus - Small circular colonial polyps which have a ring of
short tentacles around the rim. Turquoise to yellow-
green. UV coloration will remain under metal halide or
actinic lighting. Polyps connected at base.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-7, dfm= <24
wcu=3-7, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/vit
Palythoa
sp. - Larger polyp disk than Zoanthus with long pointy tentacles
around the rim. Beige-brown, cinnamon to dar "milk cof-
fee" brown, graygreen or shiny green. Might not tole-
rate direct metal halide. Polyps connected at base.
cdf=1, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-4, dfm= <36
wcu=3-7, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/vit
SubClass Alcyonria [Octocorallia]
Order Alcyonacea (leather and soft corals)
Family Alcyonidae
Alcyonium
fulvum - (yellow encrusting leather) Encrusting beige-yellow to
ivory-colored leather coral often many millimetres thick.
Finger-like projections develop which have 2 to 5 cm long
polyps with 8 flower tentacles. Polyps resemble Sarcophyton
species polyps.
cdf=2, fll=7-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >10
wcu=3-6, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod
Sarcophyton
sp. - (mushroom leather) Mushroom shaped leather coral. Grow better
in fluorescent lighting. Need adaption time to tolerate long
photoperiods of metal halide lighting. Can be propagated via
cuttings. Long polyp stems with small flower-like tentacles.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= >12
wcu=4-7, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod
trocheliophorum - (trough leather) Very attractive. Folding lobes
of leather coral with short polyps. Can double size in one
year. May not tolerate extended metal halide photoperiods and
need adaption time. Will shed skin regularly. Can be propagted
via cutting from edge lobe. Lives primarily in reef pools and
can reach a diameter of more than one meter.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= >12
wcu=4-7, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod
lobulatum - (leather) Flat, mushroomed-shaped leather. Medium brown
base. Similar to mushroom leather coral with very small polyps
and larger overall size. Can be propagated via cuttings of
base. Will become lighter under adequate lighting.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= >12
wcu=4-7, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod
latum - Dish-like with thick, lobate projections. Polyps are beige-
yellow to shiny green. Shallow water coral. Can be propagated
via cuttings. Also similar to trocheliophorum in morphology.
Will grow fast under metal halides.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-8, dfm= >12
wcu=5-8, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod
glaucum - Common mushroom shaped leather coral. Beige to sandy color-
ed or olive to bottle-green. May need to be slowly acclimated
to bright metal halides. Can be reproduced by cutting of
entire mushroom cap.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= >12
wcu=5-8, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod
sp. - Mushroom based leather coral with high, upward-arching lobate
edges. Long pure-white polyps. Mushroom from light beige to
sandy grey or light yellow in color. Need lots of light for
polyps to extend. When acclimated to metal halides, polyps will
extend to 5 cm and have star shaped tentacles. Can be cultivat-
ed with cuttings.
cdf=3, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-8, dfm= >12
wcu=3-6, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod
ehrenbergi - Similar to glaucum. Mostly pure white, occasionally
yellowish or greenish gray secondary polyps. Tentacles of
polyps easily distinguished. Skin shed less often. Needs slow
acclimation to metal halide lighting. Can be fragmented via
cuttings bu is more sensitive.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= >12
wcu=4-7, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod
Carotalcyon
sagamianum - Carrot-like leather coral. Deep water orange to crim-
son red. Has a carrot like body appearance with large polyps
which extend out from the body.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-5, dfm= >12
wcu=5-8, hac=1, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod
Sphaerella
krempfi - (christmas tree) Resemble evergreen tree and lack symbio-
tic algae. Brown color. Like strong current and do best on
substrate.
cdf=3, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= >15
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod
Lobophytum
pauciflorum - Encrusting leather with lobed, finger-shaped and occa-
sionally bushy projections or folds. Can be propagated via cut-
tings. Grow well under flouorescent lights. Have calcareous
needle growths.
cdf=2, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-3, dfm= >12
wcu=4-7, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod/cal/str
crassum - An encrusting leather coral similar to pauciflorum. Thick-
er polyps. Very robust coral. Can also be propagated via cut-
tings.
cdf=2, fll=4-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-3, dfm= >12
wcu=4-7, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/mpl, add=iod/cal/str
Sinularia
sp - Branching soft coral with a flat body on a thick column 3-4 cm
tall. Finger-like appendages extend from body and have polyps.
Prefer to grow out horizontally. Color is ivory to light gray
but under intense light will become symbiotic brown. Occasion-
ally sheds skin.
cdf=3, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= >15
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
macropodia - Branching soft coral with thick-fleshed foot and base.
Thick branches rise from this base and branch into finger like
projections. These are densly covered with polyps. Color is
light-beige or grayish white to light brown. Shed skin once a
week. Do not like direct halide lite. Can be propagated via
cuttings. Contain calcareous needles.
cdf=3, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= >15
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
notanda - This corals morphology lies between the above generic
species and macropodia. Grows well but introduce to halides
slowly. See sp. for info.
hirta -(dark brown sea hand) Similar to generic species with stubby
fingers and fat nobbed appendages. From shallow water. Grow
rapidly under metal halides. Color is ivory to cream white when
retracted, turn milk coffee brown when extended.
cdf=3, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >8
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
prodigiosa - Similar to macropodia but fingerlobes branch out twice
into secondary branches. These are thickly set with polyps. See
macropodia for info.
frondosa - Flat crusts with nobbed extensions. Will produce finger
like appendages in low current areas. Under intense light will
grow long fingers with large polyps. Like metal halide.
cdf=3, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >8
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
dura - Solid cushion like bodies with burled to stubby finger pro-
jections. See sp. for info.
brassica - Colonies resemble cauliflower heads. Dark brown polyps
on short stalks. Branches and base are creamy white to light
beige.
cdf=2, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >8
wcu=1-4, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
asterolobata - Morphology that resembles macropodia. Strong polyp-
less base column splits itself into two or more secondary co-
lumns from which long finger like branches protrude. These
branches can divide again. Branches are round and thickly
covered with delicate polyps. Will shed skin. Base color from
ivory, light grey or light olive. Will develop uv protection
matter under halides which is yellowish to greenish and slight-
ly luminescent.
cdf=2, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >8
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
polydactyla - (many fingered) Squat column from 20 to 50 mm tall
is polypless. On upper side of column is a flat polyparywith
40-50 mm long fingers which are thickly polyped. Base color is
gray-white to creamy-yellow. Polyps are light to dark brown.
Under halides polyps will become darker and then symbiotic
algae are released which lightens the color. Grows well under
fluorescent lighting.
cdf=2, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >8
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
Cladiella
sp - Squat column from which many branches extend and divide fur-
thur upward. Base column lacks polyps while they become more
dense closer to the ends of branches. Polyps are 3 to 4 cm
large. Can be propagated via branch "pinching". Can be acclimat-
ed to halides. Will grow very fast toward surface of captive
reef. Do not shed skin but will release mucus. Not very com-
patable with hexacorillia.
cdf=4, fll=2-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >8
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=sym/lfd/zpl/vit, add=iod/cal/str
Alcyonium
sp. - Bushy or crusty short tree like soft coral. Color is bright
yellow, orange or red. Shady locations. Reach 40 to 50 mm tall.
cdf=3, fll=2-7, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= >15
wcu=5-9, hac=1, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
sp. - Encrusting orange colored bushy soft coral. Very small orange
polyps on bushy orange base. Can be propagated via cuttings.
cdf=3, fll=2-7, dff= >5, mhl=1-2, dfm= >15
wcu=5-9, hac=4, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Family Xeniidae
Xenia (also Cespitularia)
sp. - Large polyps with thin stems connected at the base. Polyps
do not fully retract. Very tiny calcareous needles or complete-
ly lack skeleton. Polyps can be up to 15 mm long under intense
lighting. Tentacles are pinnated. Some will move polyps in
rhythmic motion to help exchange gases. Color is beige, cream
or light brown. Will develope uv protection matter under ha-
lides and color will be red, green, blue or irridescent. Can
be acclimated to halides well. Can do well under fluorescent
if high levels used. Can overgrow stony corals. Propagated
via cuttings.
cdf=5, fll=6-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-7, dfm= >10
wcu=5-9, hac=4, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/cal/str
umbellata - Mushroom shaped with seperate polyped branches up to
50 mm long. Polyps will open and close in rhythmic fashion.
Tentacles are short and wide and form little cups on thin
branches. Branches radiate out from base.
cdf=5, fll=6-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-7, dfm= >10
wcu=5-9, hac=4, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/cal/str
elongata - Similar to Xenia sp.. Has a more branched form. See
sp. for info.
Anthelia
glauca - Very similar to Xenia sp.. Has large polyps. Colonies
grow very fast.
cdf=5, fll=6-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-7, dfm= >10
wcu=5-9, hac=4, fod=sym/lfd, add=iod/cal/str
Family Nephteidae
Litophyton
arboreum - Standard bushy and tree shaped soft coral. Must be
acclimated to halides slowly. Will do well under fluorescents.
Can be propagated via cuttings. Pale colors with symbiotic
algae. May not be compatable with hexacorillia.
cdf=3, fll=6-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-6, dfm= >10
wcu=5-9, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Nephthea
sp. - Tall bushy like soft coral. Smooth thick base with numerous
small thickly polyped smaller branches extending from main
trunks. May not be compatable with hexacorillia.
cdf=6, fll=6-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-6, dfm= >10
wcu=5-9, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Lemnalia
sp. - Tall tree-like soft corals. Polyps are not as dense as
Nephthea. Long finger branches extend out from main clolumn.
Must be slowly acclimated to halides. Might not be too com-
patable with hexacorillia.
cdf=7, fll=6-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-6, dfm= >10
wcu=5-9, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Dendronephythya
sp. - Very colorful tree-like corals. Deep water or cave corals
which require low lighting and frequent feedings of zooplank-
ton. Will collapse occasionally. Calcareous needles are visi-
ble in branches. Thin secondary branches extend from main stem.
cdf=9, fll=3-7, dff= >10, mhl=1-2, dfm= >20
wcu=5-9, hac=2, fod=sym/lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
rubeola - Ployps are very thick on short secondary branches which
protrude from main column. Prefer sand or silt substrates.
Need frequent feedings and will open polyps if substrate
stirred up. Brightly colored coral from low light areas.
cdf=9, fll=3-7, dff= >10, mhl=1-2, dfm= >20
wcu=5-9, hac=2, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
mirabilis - Snowy white polyps exist in thick groups protruding
from short secondary branches. Form similar to rubeola.
No symbiotic algae. Need very low light.
cdf=9, fll=3-7, dff= >10, mhl=1-2, dfm= >20
wcu=5-9, hac=2, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Order Gorgonacea (gorgonians)
Family Plexauridae
Anthoplexaura (also Euplexaura)
sp. - Flexible thin branched tree-like skeleton. Composed of
horny or calcareous skeletal elements. Polyps embedded in
crusty layer of living material which surronds skeleton. This
gorgonian species has few branches and are thickly polyped.
Some species from caribbean sea contain symbiotic algae. Will
shed skin. Polyps are up to 5 mm long. Only feed zooplankton
when polyps are open. Can stir up sediment to entice polyps
to open.
cdf=6, fll=3-7, dff= >10, mhl=1-2, dfm= >20
wcu=4-8, hac=0, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Family Gorgonidae
Eugorgia
sp. - Very similar to Plexauridae. Branches are thicker.
cdf=5, fll=3-7, dff= >10, mhl=1-2, dfm= >20
wcu=4-8, hac=0, fod=lfd/zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Order Stolonifera (pipe corals)
Family Tubiporidae (organ pipe corals)
Tubipora
musica - (red organ pipe) Flower polyps in red tube-like calcareous
systems. Will do well under metal halides. Colonies should be
whole and not broken off (statement questioned by some).
cdf=2, fll=7-9, dff= >5, mhl=3-9, dfm= >10
wcu=3-6, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd, add=cal/str
Family Clavulariidae
Clavularia
viridis - (green pipe, green star polyps) Encrusting colonies of
small pipe shaped flower polyps. The tentacles are very bright
green and a calcareous webbing connects the polyp stems. Coral
is found in fist sized colonies existing in shallow water.
Will maintain bright green color under metal halide lighting.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-9, dfm= >10
wcu=4-8, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd, add=cal/str
Family Cornulariidae
Cornularia
sp. - (brown pipe) Encrusting colonies of small pipe shaped flower
polyps. The tentacles are brown and lack the calcareous web-
bing found in Clavularia viridis. A horny protective shell is
built around stolon.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-9, dfm= >10
wcu=4-8, hac=0, fod=sym/lfd, add=cal/str
Order Telestacea (branched pipe corals)
Family Telestidae
Coelogorgia
palmosa - (branched pipe) Appears like branching gorgonian corals.
Branches have short stems from which polyps extend.
cdf=2, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-9, dfm= >10
wcu=5-9, hac=0, fod=sym/zpl, add=cal/str
Order Pennatulacea (sea pens)
Family Veretillidae
Cavernularia
obesa - (sea pen)Cylinder shaped coral from which large tentacles
extend. Color can be orange, yellow, buff or white. These
animals are not very compatable to reef tanks due to half-
sessile existence. Require thick substrate.
cdf=3, fll=3-8, dff= >5, mhl=1-3, dfm= >20
wcu=2-5, hac=0, fod=zpl, add=iod/cal/str
Order Coenothecalia
Family Helioporidae (blue coral)
Heliopora
coerulea - (blue coral) Beige to olive colored coral. Smooth sur-
face with small calices. Polyps are hair-thin tubes about 1 mm
long. Very small tentacles. Sheds skin. Grows very well under
metal halides. Shapes can consist of nobs, columns, fingers or
thick lobes. Dead corals are blue colored.
cdf=4, fll=5-9, dff= >5, mhl=1-9, dfm= >10
wcu=3-7, hac=0, fod=sym/mpl, add=cal/str
d Anemones
5.4 Shelled things
a Clams
Tridacna Maxima (expensive)
Purple, blue, green, pink, or combination.
cdf=3, fll=5-9, dff <18, mhl=1-7, dfm= >8
wcu=1-5, hac=5, fod=sym, add=cal/str
Tridacna crocea
Purple, blue, green, or combination.
cdf=5, fll=5-9, dff <6 mhl=1-7, dfm= >5
wcu=1-5, hac=5, fod=sym, add=cal/str
Tridacna squamosa
brown, yellow, usually with green rim, black and red??.
cdf=3, fll=5-9, dff <18, mhl=1-7, dfm= >5
wcu=1-5, hac=5, fod=sym, add=cal/str
Tridacna derasa
brown, sometimes with green strips.
cdf=1, fll=5-9, dff <18, mhl=1-7, dfm= >5
wcu=1-5, hac=5, fod=sym, add=cal/str
Tridacna gigas
almost always brown with tiny blue dots,
very rarely green, blue or combination.
cdf=3, fll=5-9, dff <18, mhl=1-7, dfm= >5
wcu=1-5, hac=5, fod=sym, add=cal/str
Hippopus hippopus
Very light cream-color mantle with many short tan
lines. Shell is lighter in color and much smoother
than Tridacna clams. I believe the H.h clams are
at least as hardy has the hardy T. clams. They are also
supposed to be tank-raised. They are certainly the
cheapest costing at most 1/3 to 1/2 that of a similiar-sized
Tridacna (excepting derasa which are almost as cheap).
The mantle of Hippopus sp clams does not extend beyond
the shell as it does in Tridacna sp (Delbeek).
b Snails
c Crustaceans
5.5 A LISTING OF THE MORE COMMON coralline
ALGAE
(Rhodophyta)
FAMILY: Chaetangiaceae
GenSpec: _Galaxaura marginata_ (Lamouroux)
Des. Small, mounded seaweed of loosly compressed blades.
Dichotomous branches often show faint cross banding
near the tip. Lightly calcified .
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Galaxaura oblongata_ (Lamouroux)
Des. Bushy, creamy red plant having cylindrical smooth
dichotomous branches with flexible joints. Well
calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Galaxaura subverticillata_ (Kjellman)
Des. Cylindircal, dark red dichotomous branches ringed by
minute hairlike filaments, giving the algae a fuzzy
appearance. Moderatly calcified.
Range: Caribbean
FAMILY: Corallinaceae
GenSpec: _Jania adherens_ (Lamouroux)
Des: Fine, cylindrical, pink segments connected by flexible
joints. Dichotomous branching. Forms small tangled
clumps. Highly calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Jania rubens_ (Lamouroux)
Des: Rose red somewhat straight segments tightly connected by
flexible joints. Branching is dichotomous with narrow
angles (branches almost parallel). Highly calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Haliptilon subulatum_ (Johansen)
Des: Small, compressed plants, feather-like in appearance.
Composed of brittle, chalky segments connected by
flexible joints. Segments appear ringed. Heavily
calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Amphiroa fragilissima_ (Lamouroux)
Des: Dense clumps of entangled, fragile, thin jointed
branches. Generally yellowish pink in color. The
dichotomous branches form very wide angles (broad
"Y"'s) at each joint. Highly calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Amphiroa rigida var. antillana_
Des: Open, brittle species with thin, narrow cylindrical
branches. Light, off white clumps. Branches dichotomous.
Highly calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Amphiroa brasiliana_ (Decaisne)
Des: Pink, joited, dichotomus, somewhat flattened branches.
Highly calcified
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Amphiroa tribulus_ (Lamouroux)
Des: Thin, brittle, flattened, sparse branches, forming
pinkish red bushy clumps. Edges of branches are often
flattened. Highly calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Amphiroa hancockii_ (W. Taylor)
Des: Irregualr to dichotomous branching. Colour is pinkish
purple. Branches composed of thick, flattened segements.
Heavily calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Neogoniolithon spectabile_ (Setchell and Mason)
Des: Hard, stony pink plant forming knobby hemispherical
clumps tighly attached to rocks. Branching is irregular
to dichotomous, and segments are thick. Heavily
calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Neogoniolithon strictum_ (Setchell and Mason)
Des: Hard, brittle pinkish red plant with blunt branching
and no joints. Branches thick, and tend to grow
upright. Heavily calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Lithophyllum congestum_ (Foslie)
Des: Pink to purplish branched, headlike plants that look
similar to coral. Branches are crowded, stout,
projections, and are wafer-like. Heavily calcifed.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Mesophyllum mesomorphum_ (Adey)
Des: An encrusting coralline algae. Dark red to pink over-
lapping shelves or lobes. Fragil. Heavily calcified.
Range: Caribbean, Indo-Pacific
GenSpec: _Titanoderma_ sp. (Chamberlain)
Des: An encrusting coralline algae found growing epiphytically
on many species of algae. Forms thin, pinkish crusts.
Heavily calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Fosliella farinosa f. callithamnoides (Chamberlain)
Des: An articualted coralline algae found growing
epiphytically on many species of algae. Forms thin,
dichotomously branched colonies. Heavily calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Titanoderma prototypum_ (Woelkerling)
Des: Cream coloured to red encrusting algae, often with
a circular pattern present. Heavily calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Titanoderma bermudense_ (Foslie and Howe)
Des: A grayish to pale red encrusting algae consisting of
overlapping layers. Often with striations or greyish
lines present on the surface. Heavily calcified.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Porolithon pachydermum_ (Weber-van Bosse & Foslie)
Des: Pinkish grey encrusting algae often containing holes
(caused by a chiton). An important reef builder. Heavily
calcifed.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Sporolithon episporum_ (Dawson)
Des: A reddish brown encrusting algae, often growing in
layers that overlap each other. When broken, exposed
surface is white. Heavily calcifed.
Range: Caribbean
GenSpec: _Hydrolithon boergesenii_ (Foslie)
Des: A purple/lavender knobby encrusting algae. Highly
calcified.
Range: Caribbean
FAMILY: Squamariaceae
GenSpec: _Peyssonnelia_ sp.
Des: A dark red to maroon encrusting algae. Edges sometimes
raised above substrate.
Range: Caribbean
5.6 Possible Problems
a Mantis Shrimp
b bristle worms

5.7 Hermit Crabs
BY Gregory Schiemer:
The hermit crabs I'm listing are the ones
that I know are safe inhabitants for a reef aquarium. They are all relatively
small (less than one inch), eat algae, will not bother other invertebrates
or fish (although they occasionally each other during molts), are mostly
active at night, are generally long-lived, and definitely fun to watch.
All have been offered for sale at one time or another, but never regularly.
So, here they are:
From the Caribbean and Tropical Atlantic:
Red Hermit Crab (Paguristes cadenati)-
A bright red body and legs with yellow eye stalks. Very pretty, but active
usually after the lights go out. Found only on the reef as solitary individuals,
never in aggregations. My personal favorite. They gently remove micro-algae
from in and around corals and polyps. Gr Usually stays on the rocks, but
will sift through the substrate.
Orange-Claw Hermit (Calcinus tibicen)-Has
a dark red or orange body with one slightly enlarged claw. Found both on
coral reefs and rocky substrates, never in large numbers. Very good at
eating micro-algae and some macro-algae. Bolder than the Red Hermit, as
it will be active during the day. Grows to one inch. Spends almost all
of it's time on the rocks.
Polkadotted Hermit (Phimochirus operculatus)-Has
a distinctive polkadot red and white, greatly enlarged claw, and blue eyes.
Found on coral reefs. This is probably the most aggressive and active of
the small hermits. Also eats algae and sifts through the substrate. Grows
to about one inch.
Red-Stripe Hermit (Phimochirus holthuisi)-Similar
to the Polkadotted Hermit. Found on coral reefs. Active and bold. Will
eat algae and anything else it can gets it's claws on, but doesn't seem
to bother corals. Grows to about one inch.
-
Red, White and Blue Hermit (Paguristes sp.?)-Blue
legs with a touch of red, white and black. Found in large aggregations
in the sand along the shore line. This is the crab that is being sold in
quantity from Florida dealers. They are active all day, but more so at
night. They will feed on detritus and micro-algae. Bolder and m not as
much as the Polkadotted Hermit. They will occasionally climb on corals,
but apparently cause no harm. It's strange that although they are collecin
the sand, mine have spent the majority of their time on the rocks in the
aquarium. Grows to about three-quarters of an inch.
From the Pacific (including Mexico):
Red-Leg Hermit (Calcinus californiensis)-Has
rrange legs and a greenish black body. Found on rocky inshore substrates
in large aggregations. Will eat micro-algae and other bits of food missed
by the fish. More active at night, but will forage when the lights are
on. Relatively bold and aggressive. Grows to about three-quarters of an
inch.
Blue-Eye Hermit (Paguristes sanguinimanus)-Orange
body with bright blue eyes. Found on sand flats and patch reefs in aggregations.
Good micro-algae eater. Grows to about one-half inch.
Blue-Spotted Hermit (Clibanarius digueti)-Reddish-brown
legs with bluish spots. Found on rocky inshore substrates where it feeds
on algae. Grows to only one-half inch.
6.0 General Catalogs
Here is a list of non-aquarium
related catalogs that have items that may be of use to the serious aquarist
and DIYer.
Ayn Plastic 1-800-431-2451
A nationwide plastic supplier. They have
about a dozen outlets and also ship orders. The catalog contains info and
specs on many types of plastics that are useful for DIY aquarium projects.
They have a $50 minimum order.
C.F. Bowman & Co.
38 Addington Court
East Brunswick, NJ 08816
PH (908) 390-6436
FX (908) 390-6438
C.F. Bowman & Co. I heard of by e-mail,
but I later noticed their ad in FAMA. Their prices on acrylic tubing look
very good, at least; a 60" long 6" od 1/8" wall clear cast acrylic tube
is $35.75, which is about 60% of what I paid. I didn't find extruded tube,
but they do say to call for items not listed. They are ostensibly wholesale
only, so you may need to give a company name. They also have a $50 minimum
order.
C and H Sales Company P.O. Box 5356
2176 E. Colorado Blvd. Pasadena, CA 91117-9988 Pasadena, CA 91107 (213)
681-4925 (LA) (818) 796-2628 (Pasadena) (800) 325-9465
C & H sells a wide collection of surplus
and used equipment, ranging from fans, blowers, pumps (water, air, and
otherwise), electronic components, motors (ac, dc, gearhead, stepper),
solenoids, laboratory glassware, chart recorders, and tools through stranger
things like gyrocompasses and a bit of defense electronics. Prices vary
but are often quite good. For those in Southern California, their store
has lots of odd items in quantities too small to include in the catalog.
Cole-Palmer 1-800-323-4340 or 708 647-7600
A huge catalog of test equipment and related
industrial hardware. Like Markson, much is beyond the need and budget of
a hobbiest but much is not.
Grainger Industrial 1-800-323-0620
A nationwide chain of wholesalers of industrial
needs. They have many stores in most states. There is probably one near
you. They have a huge catalog of all sorts of things for DIYers, float-switches,
ballasts, tools, you name it. They are a wholesaler so they technically
won't sell to individuals. If you walk in (they have a counter just like
any retail hardware store) and pay cash and give the name of a local company,
they will sell to you. They just need to have the name of a company to
put on the invoice because legal, they are a wholesaler. You don't need
a tax number when you are paying cash. You can just go in and give them
the name of the company where you work. It is probably a good idea to call
ahead and see if the item you want is in stock.
Hach - Products for Analysis 1-800-227-4224
A catalog of testing items. This is the
next step if you want better test kits than best kits normally available
to hobbiest (like Lamotte). Many of their products are not beyond the budget
of a serious hobbiest. The also carry chemistry hardware like glassware.
Herbach and Rademan 1-800-848-8001
A miscellaneous junk catalog with all
sorts of electronic, mechanical, and pumping widgets and other gadgets.
Also, surplus junk like power supplies. A catalog of a variety of scientific
equipment, mostly chemistry related. Many of their items are well beyond
the need and budget of hobbiest but much of it is not.
The Surplus Center 1-???-???-????
Another miscellaneous junk catalog with
much the same stuff as H&R.
United States Plastic Corp.
1390 Neubrecht Rd.
Lima, Ohio 45801
1-800-537-9724
US Plastics sells a large selection of basic
materials, plus an equally large assortment of various manufactured items
made of plastic and some related items like fluid pumps. A few of the less
common items which come to mind are clear pvc, plastic tanks up to a few
thousand gallons, ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene stock, flexible
impeller pumps, and plastic welders. Of special interest to the diy'er
would be items like the thickened acrylic cement (IMHO required for the
best and strongest watertight acrylic joints), their rod, pipe, tube, and
sheet stock in pvc and acrylic (where else do you find clear sheet pvc,
or 90 degree sweep fittings for lower backpressure?), and the large food-quality
drums for storing RO/DI water and mixed saltwater. The fun of finding stuff
you didn't know existed shouldn't be under-rated, either.
7.0 Some Questions and Answers
Q: Can I do this cheaply?
A: No, relative to a similar size fish-only
tank. (See cost estimate section)
Q: What if all I want to keep is Anemones?
A: Water quality requirements drop some
(Nitrates should remain under 20ppm NO3-).
Q: What are good test kits?
A: Tetra Hardness, Hach Nitrate, Calcium,
Iron, Phosphate - (303) 669-3050 LaMotte Phosphate
Hach Test kit details:
Calcium: Cat. No. 1457-01, Model
HA-4P, $47.50, 100 test Dilute your sample 2:1 (Distilled:Saltwater). Each
drop of titrant will equal 24mg/l of Ca++. Dilution saves titrant, and
yields clearer results with sufficient accuracy. Iron: Cat. No. 22993-00,
Model IR-21, $57.50, 100 test Very important if Macro Algae growth of primary
interest. Nitrate: Cat. No. 14161-00, Model NI-14, $42.50, 50 test Suggest
ordering Saltwater reagent, Cat. No. 20761-99, $18.50 for 100 test. Phosphate:
Cat. No. 2248-00, Model PO-19, $54.50, 100 test This test is 2.5 times
more sensitive than the LaMotte test. The Hach is rated down to 0.02ppm,
the LaMotte 0.05ppm. Silica: Cat. No. 22550-00, Model SI-7, $72.50, 100
test Not tested by any of the authors of this FAQ. Mentioned due to its
availability and track record of Hach kits.
Q: What about cheaper kits?
A: Kordon Ammonia, Nitrite, low-end Nitrate
not bad for gross measurement, will need Hach Nitrate after water is in
proper pollution range.
Q: Which Salt Mix is best?
A: Instant Ocean works for many. Reef
Crystal has had reported problems. Tropic Marin recommended by some. Coralife
dissolves fast, can sometimes be found cheap.
Note that all 50 gallon bags
of salt are not the same. Instant Ocean bags weigh in at 16lbs each, Coralife
at 14.5lbs each. There is no magic here, at a given temperature, a bag
of IO will make a solution of higher specific gravity (or more gallons
at the same specific gravity) than a bag of Coralife will.
Q: How do I get rid of algae in my reef tank?
A: There are three types of undesirable
"algae" that commonly grow in reef tanks: long green strands of hair algae,
short fuzzy green turf algae, and brown or red slime algae. Some people
also consider fleshy macro algaes, such as Caulerpa, to be a pest as they
can overgrow and choke out soft corals. Desirable algaes are the calcarious
ones, both encrusting coralline algae in pink, purple, white, yellow, maroon
and brown, and larger calcarious algae such as halimeda. Some believe that
any Macroalgae (Caulerpa, Halimeda, etc.) do not belong in Reef tanks.
"Slime" algae is actually cyanobacteria,
not an algae. While its growth is often a sign of poor water quality, it
grows in some tanks with fairly good water quality. Too much iodine and
too little current are known to encourage its growth. Nothing is known
to eat it. The best thing to do is to siphon this out as soon as it appears.
If it threatens to overgrow everything, it can be treated chemically with
a light dose of Maracyn, which has not been seen to harm the biofilter
or hardy inverts. Treat once with one 200mg table per 15-20 gallons, leaving
your skimmer off for 24 hours. When you turn the skimmer back on, it will
foam like crazy and remove the remaining medication very quickly. This
will clear the tank, although if water conditions are not otherwise improved,
it may return in a few weeks.
Others have found cyanobacteria surviving,
and sometimes blooming, in tanks that have excellent water quality. They
used a somewhat different schedule of Maracyn treatment to eradicate the
infestation: One 200 mg tablet per 50 gallons total water capacity (don't
forget the sump and skimmers) dosed daily for 5 days. Their experience
is that this will permanently cure the problem, without any return. Of
course, if the bacteria is re-introduced to the tank, all bets are off.
They also disable the skimmer during the treatment, and siphon off all
dead and dying material after day 3.
The best way to deal with hair and turf
algae is not to let it grow to begin with. Keep the tank dark while it
is initially cycling. Keep nitrates and phosphates as low as possible,
and siphon out detritus. Keep herbivores in the tank. Snails (as many as
1 for every 2-3 gallons) will eat turf algae, and hair algae before it
gets long. Tangs (especially Kole, Sailfin, and Yellow) and many small
blennies will eat many forms of algae. If the tank does become overgrown,
pull as much as possible out by hand. Reduce the light cycle, or if there
is nothing light sensitive in the tank, leave it in darkness for a couple
of weeks. Get more herbivores. Be sure to siphon out their droppings, which
if left in the tank make great algae fertilizer. I have found that urchins
can help recover an overgrown tank, although they will knock things over
and eat any kind of algae, including desirable calcarious algaes.
8.0 Book Review and Comments:
"The Marine Aquarium Handbook,
Beginner to Breeder"
by Martin A. Moe, Jr.
1982. Norns Publishing Company
ISBN 0-939960-02-08
Best way to learn the very basics,
and an excellent first reference on many topics afterwards. Not reef oriented.
A must buy for the beginner.
"The Marine Aquarium Reference, Systems
and Invertebrates"
by Martin A. Moe, Jr.
1989. Green Turtle Publications, Florida
ISBN 0-939960-05-2
The place to begin looking for
almost every topic. Discussion of filtration is exhaustive, though a bit
spare on modern Berlin practice (is this still true in the new edition?).
A must buy for every reefkeeper.
"Advanced Reef Keeping I, A Comprehensive
Guide to Setting up Your Reef Tank."
by Albert J. Thiel
1989. Aardvark Press
ISBN 0-945777-01-9
"Small Reef Aquarium Basics, The
Optimum Aquarium for the Reef Hobbyist"
by Albert J. Thiel
1989. Aardvark Press
ISBN - 0945777-02-7
Some good information buried among
dubious advice and the most wretched editing ever conceived. His filtration
ideas are rather old-fashioned. This guy sold the expensive equipment that
he recommends, so Caveat Emptor should be your motto.
Thiel advocates one particular way of maintaining
reef aquaria. It's not the only way, and it may not be the best way, but
it does work. The usual advise is for people to read his books, but to
do so skeptically.
"Corals of the World, Biology and Field
Guide"
by Dr. Elizabeth M. Wood
1983. T.F.H. Publications
ISBN 0-87666-809-0
TFH# H-1049
A good reference for anyone who
intends to keep stony corals. Like other books not specifically written
for the hobbyist, it does not discuss the care of corals. May be out of
print.
"The Reef Tank Owner's Manual"
by John H. Tullock
October 10, 1990. Aardvark Press
ISBN 0-945777-06-x
Discussion of filtration is old-fashioned,
similar to Thiel's books but somewhat more grammatical. Good discussions
of individual animals and animal choices aimed at the beginning and intermediate
reefkeeper.
Invertebrates: Tube-, Soft-, and Branching
Corals"
by Peter Wilkens / Johannes Birkholz
1986, Engelbert Pfriem Verlag, Wuppertal
ISBN 3-921677-14-9
Invertebrates: Stone and False Corals,
Colonial Anemones"
by Peter Wilkens
1990, Engelbert Pfriem Verlag, Wuppertal
ISBN 3-921677-15-7
only books available which discusses
the care of individual species of corals. The authors' experience and reputation
is vast. Unfortunately the production quality of the English translation
s poor, but there is no other comparable reference. A must buy for anyone
intending to eep corals. These may be out of print, so finding them may
be very difficult.
Fishes for the Invertebrate Aquarium,
3rd ed."
by Helmut Debelius
1989. Aquarium Systems
Knights of the Sea"
Absolutely fantastic shrimp book. Out of
print, gold if you can get your hand on it.
Helmut Debelius. (An absolutely
fascinating speaker, BTW. If you ever get a chance to hear him speak, do
so!) Quite a lot of good information on reef-compatible fishes.
Veron
Corals of Australia and The definitive
reference book for the Indo-Pacific stony corals. The original is out of
print and very difficult to find. A reprint run has recently been done.
"Living Corals"
by Douglas Faulkner & Richard Chesher
1979, Crown Publishers, Inc.
ISBN 0-517-53854-7
This is one of those big picture
books of corals, but it's the best one I've ever seen. The photos are all
top-notch, most show large groupings of a single species. The descriptions
are not with the pictures, which can be disconcerting until you get used
to it. I believe this book is out-of-print, though I often find used copies
(fairly cheap!) at a local bookstore.
"Marine Plants of the Caribbean, A Field
Guide from Florida to Brazil"
by Diane Scullion Littler, Mark M. Littler,
Katina E. Bucher,& James N. Norris
1989. Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington
D.C.
ISBN 0-87474-607-8
Quite a good reference book describing
various species of algae that are found in the waters of the Caribbean.
"Seaweeds of Hawaii, A photographic
Identification Guide"
by William H. Magruder and Jeffrey W.
Hunt
1979. The Oriental Publishing Company
ISBN 0-932596-12-6
Another excellent reference identifying
algae found around Hawaii. Out of print.
"The Manual of Marine Invertebrates"
by Martyn Haywood and Sue Wells
1989. Salamander Books Ltd., London
ISBN 0-86101-474-X
I'd recommend the Manual of Marine
Invertebrates by Hayward. While this does not go into a great deal of detail
on anything, it covers every class of inverts and is good for learning
about what's on your live rock and the basics of care for different kinds
of creatures.
Yes! I'd forgotten about this one. It contains
quite a few mistakes, but is a good reference book nonetheless.
Walls, Jerry, "Encyclopedia of Marine
Inverts",
(TFH, Neptune, NJ: 1988)
ISBN 0-86622-141-7.
and
found that the later (Wall's book) appeared to have a lot more info. It
isn't a great book from the aquarium point of view but does cover the basics
of all the Phyla. It has a lot of color plates. I was able to identify
a number of Live-Rock ReefCritters(tm) with it.
"Dr. Burgess's Atlas of Marine Aquarium
Fishes"
by Dr. Warren E. Burgess, Dr. Herbert
R. Axelrod, & Raymond E. Hunziker III
1988. T.F.H. Publications
TFH# H-1100
"The big picture book of fishes."
Considered the first book to look marine fish up in. Second edition has
been published.
9.0 Useful Tables
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Temperature C F 20.00 68.00 20.20 68.36 20.40 68.72 20.60 69.08 20.80 69.44
21.00 69.80 21.20 70.16 21.40 70.52 21.60 70.88 21.80 71.24 22.00 71.60
22.20 71.96 22.40 72.32 22.60 72.68 22.80 73.04 23.00 73.40 23.20 73.76
23.40 74.12 23.60 74.48 23.80 74.84 24.00 75.20 24.20 75.56 24.40 75.92
24.60 76.28 24.80 76.64 25.00 77.00 25.20 77.36 25.40 77.72 25.60 78.08
25.80 78.44 26.00 78.80 26.20 79.16 26.40 79.52 26.60 79.88 26.80 80.24
27.00 80.60 27.20 80.96 27.40 81.32 27.60 81.68 27.80 82.04 28.00 82.40
28.20 82.76 28.40 83.12 28.60 83.48 28.80 83.84 29.00 84.20 29.20 84.56
29.40 84.92 29.60 85.28 29.80 85.64 30.00 86.00 Alkalinity meq/l ppm KH
CaCO3 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.05 2.50 0.14 0.10 5.00 0.28 0.15 7.50 0.42 0.20
10.00 0.56 0.25 12.50 0.70 0.30 15.00 0.84 0.35 17.50 0.98 0.40 20.00 1.12
0.45 22.50 1.26 0.50 25.00 1.40 0.55 27.50 1.54 0.60 30.00 1.68 0.65 32.50
1.82 0.70 35.00 1.96 0.75 37.50 2.10 0.80 40.00 2.24 0.85 42.50 2.38 0.90
45.00 2.52 0.95 47.50 2.66 1.00 50.00 2.80 1.10 55.00 3.08 1.20 60.00 3.36
1.30 65.00 3.64 1.40 70.00 3.92 1.50 75.00 4.20 1.60 80.00 4.48 1.70 85.00
4.76 1.80 90.00 5.04 1.90 95.00 5.32 2.00 100.00 5.60 2.10 105.00 5.88
2.20 110.00 6.16 2.30 115.00 6.44 2.40 120.00 6.72 2.50 125.00 7.00 2.60
130.00 7.28 2.70 135.00 7.56 2.80 140.00 7.84 2.90 145.00 8.12 3.00 150.00
8.40 3.10 155.00 8.68 3.20 160.00 8.96 3.30 165.00 9.24 3.40 170.00 9.52
3.50 175.00 9.80 3.60 180.00 10.08 3.70 185.00 10.36 3.80 190.00 10.64
3.90 195.00 10.92 4.00 200.00 11.20 4.20 210.00 11.76 4.40 220.00 12.32
4.60 230.00 12.88 4.80 240.00 13.44 5.00 250.00 14.00 (1) (50) (2.8) Nitrogen
as Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate N N NH3 NO2 NO3 ppm uM/l mg/l mg/l mg/l 0.000
0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.005 0.357 0.006 0.016 0.022 0.010 0.714 0.012
0.033 0.044 0.015 1.071 0.018 0.049 0.066 0.020 1.429 0.024 0.066 0.089
0.025 1.786 0.030 0.082 0.111 0.030 2.143 0.036 0.099 0.133 0.035 2.500
0.043 0.115 0.155 0.040 2.857 0.049 0.131 0.177 0.045 3.214 0.055 0.148
0.199 0.050 3.571 0.061 0.164 0.221 0.055 3.929 0.067 0.181 0.244 0.060
4.286 0.073 0.197 0.266 0.065 4.643 0.079 0.214 0.288 0.070 5.000 0.085
0.230 0.310 0.075 5.357 0.091 0.246 0.332 0.080 5.714 0.097 0.263 0.354
0.085 6.071 0.103 0.279 0.376 0.090 6.429 0.109 0.296 0.399 0.095 6.786
0.115 0.312 0.421 0.100 7.143 0.121 0.329 0.443 0.15 10.71 0.18 0.49 0.66
0.20 14.29 0.24 0.66 0.89 0.25 17.86 0.30 0.82 1.11 0.30 21.43 0.36 0.99
1.33 0.35 25.00 0.42 1.15 1.55 0.40 28.57 0.49 1.31 1.77 0.45 32.14 0.55
1.48 1.99 0.50 35.71 0.61 1.64 2.21 0.55 39.29 0.67 1.81 2.44 0.60 42.86
0.73 1.97 2.66 0.65 46.43 0.79 2.14 2.88 0.70 50.00 0.85 2.30 3.10 0.75
53.57 0.91 2.46 3.32 0.80 57.14 0.97 2.63 3.54 0.85 60.71 1.03 2.79 3.76
0.90 64.29 1.09 2.96 3.99 0.95 67.86 1.15 3.12 4.21 1.00 71.43 1.21 3.29
4.43 1.50 107.14 1.82 4.93 6.64 2.00 142.86 2.43 6.57 8.86 2.50 178.57
3.04 8.21 11.07 3.00 214.29 3.64 9.86 13.29 3.50 250.00 4.25 11.50 15.50
4.00 285.71 4.86 13.14 17.71 4.50 321.43 5.46 14.79 19.93 5.00 357.14 6.07
16.43 22.14 5.50 392.86 6.68 18.07 24.36 6.00 428.57 7.29 19.71 26.57 6.50
464.29 7.89 21.36 28.79 7.00 500.00 8.50 23.00 31.00 7.50 535.71 9.11 24.64
33.21 8.00 571.43 9.71 26.29 35.43 8.50 607.14 10.32 27.93 37.64 9.00 642.86
10.93 29.57 39.86 9.50 678.57 11.54 31.21 42.07 10.00 714.29 12.14 32.86
44.29 (1) (1000/14)(17/14)(46/14)(62/14) Calcium Ca CaCO3 dH mg/l ppm 0.00
0.00 0.00 5.00 12.50 0.70 10.00 25.00 1.40 15.00 37.50 2.10 20.00 50.00
2.80 25.00 62.50 3.50 30.00 75.00 4.20 35.00 87.50 4.90 40.00 100.00 5.60
45.00 112.50 6.30 50.00 125.00 7.00 55.00 137.50 7.70 60.00 150.00 8.40
65.00 162.50 9.10 70.00 175.00 9.80 75.00 187.50 10.50 80.00 200.00 11.20
85.00 212.50 11.90 90.00 225.00 12.60 95.00 237.50 13.30 100.00 250.00
14.00 110.00 275.00 15.40 120.00 300.00 16.80 130.00 325.00 18.20 140.00
350.00 19.60 150.00 375.00 21.00 160.00 400.00 22.40 170.00 425.00 23.80
180.00 450.00 25.20 190.00 475.00 26.60 200.00 500.00 28.00 210.00 525.00
29.40 220.00 550.00 30.80 230.00 575.00 32.20 240.00 600.00 33.60 250.00
625.00 35.00 260.00 650.00 36.40 270.00 675.00 37.80 280.00 700.00 39.20
290.00 725.00 40.60 300.00 750.00 42.00 320.00 800.00 44.80 340.00 850.00
47.60 360.00 900.00 50.40 380.00 950.00 53.20 400.00 1000.00 56.00 420.00
1050.00 58.80 440.00 1100.00 61.60 460.00 1150.00 64.40 480.00 1200.00
67.20 500.00 1250.00 70.00 (1) (100/40)(56/400)
Credits
The original document was created by the
joint effort of many individual people, sharing a common interest in "Reef
Keeping". Those who allowed their names published were:
-
Patti Beadles
-
Craig Bingman
-
Kevin
Carpenter (editor)
-
Gary Dudley
-
Frank M. Greco
-
Ken Koellner
-
Dustin Laurence (FTP site sponser)
-
Teresa Moore
-
David O'Brien
-
Paul Prior
-
Keith Rogers
-
Mark Rosenstein
-
Greg Smith
-
Spass Stoiantschewsky
-
Anthony Tse
-
Steve Tyree
-
John Ward (FTP site sponser)
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